(or "Follow the Yelavich Road")
by Bob Yelavich
June 1992
Comments or questions regarding this publication may be sent to:
B.M. Yelavich
4630 Fir Tree Lane
Sparks, NV 89436
First edition - January 1990
Second edition - September 1990
Third edition - June 1991
Fourth edition - June 1992
I have been a regular visitor to England since 1975. Generally speaking, I have visited the south central area about three times each year. More specifically, as I have travelled on business to visit the IBM Laboratories in Hursley Park, I have stayed somewhere in the Winchester area and toured most of the south of England.
Because of so many visits, a number of my friends asked or suggested that I write a book of some sort to document my travels and my experiences, such that it might be of benefit to first-time travelers, or even some of the more experienced visitors. To carry this thought a bit further, it has been stated more than once that visitors, such as myself, may come to know the area better than the 'locals'.
Whatever the case, I have now attempted to put my thoughts on paper and hope that by sharing them, that my experiences and suggestions can in fact benefit others.
The outline of this book is to begin describing a trip to a first time visitor. In this regard, I would like to list some considerations for planning your trip, making the trip, getting settled, and most importantly, enjoying yourself once you're there.
Admittedly, this book is based on personal experiences and clearly likes and dislikes. My hope is that you can think about your trip ahead of time, and get the most out of your trip because you have done some advance planning, or at least you have given some thought to what it is you would like to do when visiting England.
If there are any inaccuracies in my text, please accept my apologies. I guess I would like to hear any comments you may have or experiences that you would like to share, but I don't want to promise that I would update or change this book immediately.
Have a good trip......
[Return to Table of Contents]
In this initial section, I'd like to talk about preparing for your trip.
And further, I'm going to assume that this is your first trip overseas.
By this time, you probably realize that you need a passport to visit other countries.
The easiest way to obtain a passport is to let somebody else do it for you.
There are companies (such as Visa International in Dallas) who will take care of all
the details for you, and at really a nominal fee.
In one stop, you can fill out the forms, have your picture taken, pay the fee, and they will take
care of the rest.
Get your passport well in advance of your trip, so that you have one less thing to worry about.
Passports are good for ten years (adults), so as soon as you think you might be going abroad, get a
passport.
You don't need a visa to visit England, but if you plan to visit other countries during
your trip, check in advance to see if a visa is required for the countries you plan to visit.
The same company that can obtain a passport for you, usually handles visas as well, and I again would
recommend you let them do it.
[Return to Table of Contents]
You'll need to give some thought to money and currency exchanges. Most countries have hotels and
shops that will accept major credit cards such as American Express and VISA, but still you'll need
some amount of cash.
You can consider getting travelers checks (cheques) before you leave, and
in that regard you might even consider getting the travellers checks in the currency of the country
you plan to visit.
It might seem like a small point, but many foreign hotels or businesses will more readily cash a travellers
check in their currency than one in U.S. dollars.
By having travellers checks in a foreign currency, you have already exchanged U.S. dollars at some
rate.
If you have travellers checks in U.S. dollars, you actually be exchanging currency when
you cash your check, and at whatever the rate and service charge is at that point.
If you don't mind carrying cash, you can get some amount of money exchanged in the U.S. before your
trip.
That way, you'll have cash in the foreign currency on arrival.
Before exchanging U.S. dollars to foreign currency, you may wish to check
the local papers (Wall Street Journal or USA Today) to see what the exchange rate is.
That way, when you convert some cash locally, you'll have some idea as to whether you're getting a good
exchange rate or not.
I often will exchange some money at the airport before leaving.
By some, I mean $100.00.
If I'm going to visit IBM Hursley, there is a bank on site and the exchange rate there is most often
very competitive, in your favor, so I wait until then to exchange more money.
I would avoid exchanging money at foreign hotels or shops.
A bank would be the best place to exchange money.
Currency exchanges are usually located in foreign airports, so if you have not acquired the foreign
currency before departing, you can do it on arrival.
Don't leave the airport without any local currency.
The exchange rate when using credit cards is quite good.
My experience has been, over a period of many years, that American Express will always give
me an exchange rate in my favor.
I have used AMEX without hesitation, and with no difficulty in all my travels.
I should also point out, that on numerous occasions, when eating out with others,
if I am short of cash, I will put the dinner bill on my AMEX card as a means for picking up the cash
from others.
Looking ahead to your return home, you want to give some thought to how much foreign money you'll
be using and needing, and try not to return home with too much foreign currency.
You can exchange that foreign currency when you return home, but in general the exchange rate will
not be in your favor.
If you thought you might be travelling abroad again, in the near future, you might keep
your foreign currency, but realize exchange rates can fluctuate, and your 'holdings' can go up or
down in value.
When exchanging money, you will pay a commission, and that varies quite a bit.
A bank or currency exchange will most likely charge you a flat fee.
In this regard, you don't want to exchange money often, because you'll pay a fee with each
exchange.
Therefore, you want to give some thought to how much foreign cash you want on hand,
and get that much exchanged.
Some hotels may not appear to charge you a commission, but if their rate is not favorable to you,
effectively they have charged you for the service.
Using your AMEX or VISA card to charge dinner
expenses while pocketing the cash from others is
one way of avoiding a commission for currency
exchange.
If you have a PIN (personal identification number)
for your VISA or MasterCard you should be able to
find a Barclaycard (VISA) or Access (MasterCard)
teller machine (cash machine) to accept your
transaction. American Express offices are known
to issue cash or travellers checks written against
a U.S. personal check.
The currency in England is based on the decimal
system, so that should be easy enough for you. If
you plan to visit other countries, you'll have to
check on the denominations and values of their
currency. In 1992, the British Pound Sterling has
been worth about $1.90 U.S.. You have to get used
to the idea of looking at something that might
sell for ten pounds and remember that that is
$19.00 U.S.
English paper money comes in 5, 10, 20 and 50
pound denominations. Until recently they had a
one pound note, but vending machines dictated the
need for larger denominations of coins and hence
the one pound note became the one pound coin. The
paper currency is of different sizes, with the
five pound note being the smallest and the 10, 20
and 50 being a bit larger.
The coins in England are 100 pennies to the pound.
Coins come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 p (p for pence)
denominations. The 1 and 2 pence coins are copper
in color, whereas the 5, 10, 20 and 50 are silver
in color. The pound coin is the off color of an
alloy, looking sometimes brassy or bronze but with
a touch of silver.
The 20 and 50 pence coins are not round but are
multi-sided. In case you hear the
term 'quid', just equate that to a pound. This
would be much like calling a U.S. dollar a buck.
Now that you understand pounds and pence, let me
tell you the England is already considering
revising the currency and coinage. Who knows what
the denominations will be in the future.
Should you bring foreign money home with you, and
try to exchange it, banks or currency exchanges
will convert your paper money but not your coins.
You may wish to give some thought to minimizing
the amount of coins you have as you prepare to
return.
On your return, most airports will have duty free
shops where you can spend literally any currency.
If you're expecting a bargain at a duty free shop,
you had best know your prices. On some things
such as liquor, you will probably save a bit
because of little or no tax. But on other goods,
you may actually pay more than a shop in town.
The duty free shops at both Heathrow and Gatwick
do have an extensive selection of merchandise. Be
aware that there are limits on the amount of duty
free merchandise that you can bring back into the
U.S. The duty free shops have listings to tell
you what the limits are.
International flights frequently sell duty free
goods and that would be another opportunity to use
whatever currency you're trying to spend. With
the mention of duty free shopping, realize that
you can buy duty free goods as you leave the U.S.
Some friends of mine in the U.K. (United Kingdom)
enjoy American bourbon and the duty free shop
gives me the opportunity to save money on my purchase.
Other than passports, visa and currency, you'll
probably be thinking of your flight 'across the
pond'. Whether you're flying to Europe or to the
Pacific, it's a long way. Dallas to London is a
nine hour flight (going with the wind) and the
return flight is ten hours (against the wind).
[Return to Table of Contents]
As I said in my introduction, I have been travelling to England for a good many years. Originally, my trips
were made from Palo Alto, California but in recent years I have been travelling from Dallas, Texas.
My earlier trips caused me to use London's Heathrow Airport, however for
the Dallas-London round trip, I now use London's Gatwick Airport.
For business reasons, my destination has always
been the IBM UK Laboratory in Hursley. Hursley is
located just south of Winchester, in Hampshire
County, in the south central area of England. My
examples given in this text will mostly have a
Dallas, Gatwick and Hursley as a point of reference because that's the normal itinerary for me.
But wherever possible, I will give examples of
Heathrow or other points of interest.
If you are travelling to England from some other
location, using a different airport or somehow
having a different itinerary, I still hope that
this book will be of some value to you. Depending
on your departure point, a flight to England could
take 5 to 12 hours.
I would assume that you would take a non-stop
flight to minimize the duration of your trip. A
person flying from the U.S. might consider some
intermediate stop, to break up an otherwise long
flight, or maybe for some other personal reason,
but do realize it just makes the overall journey
that much longer. My non-stop flight from Dallas
to London causes me to land at the Gatwick
Airport. If I changed planes at some intermediate
stop, that might affect which London airport
and/or terminal I might arrive at.
A flight from Dallas to London will probably leave
in the late afternoon or early evening and arrive
in London the following morning. For instance, a
5:30PM flight might arrive in London at 8:30AM.
Another way of describing that flight would be to
say the nine hour flight was from 5:30PM to
2:30AM, add six hours time zone difference, and
the result is an arrival time of 8:30AM.
England is home to 'Greenwich Mean Time' or GMT,
however the country chooses to be 'one hour closer
to west'. It's odd but a trip due south to France
would cause you to cross a time zone. England
changes time in spring and fall just as the U.S.
does for daylight savings time.
You should plan an overnight trip to London with
some forethought. Specifically, you will have to
adjust your 'internal clock' on arrival to get in
step with local events. If you haven't experienced it before you certainly will come to know
what 'jet lag' is on this trip.
My strategy is this. I avoid taking any kind of a
nap soon after boarding the plane in Dallas. I
will have a drink and eat the meal, and by this
time you're three hours into the flight. When the
movie starts, I curl up with a pillow and blanket
and try to get at least three hours sleep.
Depending on what seat I have and how crowded the
plane is, this may be easy or difficult, but whatever it is, it's important to me getting adjusted
to the time difference as quickly as I can.
On arrival, it may be 2:30AM in Dallas, but for me
it's 8:30AM in London. I purposely plan some
itinerary or objective for arrival day just to
stay awake and active. My goal is to get by with
my three hour sleep on the plane and stay awake
until at least 9:00 or 9:30PM London time. I'll
be very tired and I'll sleep well that first
night. By this time, remember my body thinks it's
4:00PM in the afternoon but I'm trying to go to
bed at 10:00PM London time. And if I get eight
hours sleep, I hope to have begun to fool my
internal clock to thinking that was 10 to 6 and
not 4 to 12.
The one thing I try to avoid is taking an afternoon nap on the day of my arrival in England.
That seems to make the adjustment to time zones
even more difficult. If you must take a nap, try
to limit it to under two hours.
[Return to Table of Contents] One last item I would mention as part of preparing
for your trip would be what you pack. In addition
to camera, film, toilet articles, etc, the real
question is what clothes to take. The best time
of year in southern England (in my opinion) is the
fall. Especially in the country. But your trip
may be at some other time of year, so let's take
them one at a time.
A trip in November-March will be a cool one. It
could be cold, and maybe even a rare snow in the
south of England. On days where it's 32-50
degrees Fahrenheit (0-10 Centigrade) you might
need that umbrella and raincoat for a cold rain or
drizzle. Evenings that dip to freezing could
cover the roads with something the Brits call
'black ice', so do be careful if you're driving.
The weather won't be ideal for sightseeing, but
don't waste your trip by staying at your hotel.
Get out and about.
A trip in April to June should be quite pleasant.
Spring has sprung, the leaves are coming out, and
England prides itself in its gardens. Your
clothes will be a bit lighter, so plan on layered
clothing, which isn't a bad idea in winter either.
You probably can shed the liner on your topcoat,
and the spring rains won't seem as harsh as the
ones in winter. The sun is going to break through
those grey skies, so have your camera ready.
Summer is good news and bad news. Yes, you will
enjoy warm weather but so will countless other
tourists. You won't need winter's warm clothes,
but keep that umbrella handy. I doubt that you'll
need much in the way of sweaters or layered
clothing, so you'll have room in your suitcase for
a few more pieces of casual clothing, or maybe an
extra pair of good walking shoes.
The weather in summer can get quite warm, maybe
even sultry. You won't have the freshness of
spring or the crispness of fall, but you should
see plenty of sunshine. Air conditioned cars or
hotel rooms are not usually found in England.
School will be out during mid-July and all of
August, so expect traffic on the roads and queues
(waiting lines) at most sightseeing attractions.
Then there is fall. The kids are back in school,
the days are warm without being oppressive. The
nights make sleeping under covers cozy, but do
keep the window open a crack. Sightseeing
shouldn't be as tiring as perhaps in summer
weather, and you'll have enough sunny days for
good photography.
If you stay at major hotels in major cities and
towns, you should have daily or reasonable laundry
service. Ask about it when you check into your
hotel. Do not assume daily laundry service as in
most U.S. hotels. If you travel with wash and
wear clothing, it would be helpful if you had your
own 'clothes line' and, if necessary, a plastic
hanger or two. Your room will have a bathtub over
which you can hang a washable or two.
Many English hotels will not have ice machines,
soft drink machines, or other vending machines.
If the hotel has a pub, you probably can get something to drink from room service. Look nearby
your hotel and see if there's a 'news market' in
the neighborhood. A news market is like a convenience store in the U.S. and you may be able to buy
yourself some snacks for your room, to 'tide you
over'. Your hotel room may have an electric
kettle, but don't assume bottle openers, ice
buckets, and so on. Check with the front desk if
you need those items.
[Return to Table of Contents] One way to get the most out of any trip, is to
plan for it. And that applies to travel overseas
perhaps even more than a more casual trip around
home. So, if you're going to visit England, there
is a great deal which you can do to help yourself
and get the most enjoyment out of your trip. For
some, you may make only one trip, and I think
you'd like to make the most of that visit. For
others, you may have an opportunity to make
several trips, but my attitude is, make the most
out of all of them, including the first one.
[Return to Table of Contents] So, how to do this? The best recommendations I
can make are 1) talk with someone who has been
there, and 2) get some reading material. In the
latter case, if it's Britain we're talking about,
the place I would suggest you turn to is The
British Travel Bookshop Ltd, 40 W. 57th Street,
New York, NY 10019. You can look to your local
bookstore, certainly, but for a comprehensive
selection of many kind of publications dealing
with Britain, I don't think you're going to find
any better than that Travel Bookshop Ltd.
As an additional or alternative suggestion, you
might consider looking for an office of the
British Tourist Authority. It has offices in most
major cities and can provide you with travel and
touring assistance.
In the case of the British Travel Bookshop, you
could begin by writing them and asking for a
current catalog of publications. Or get their
number from the information operator, and give
them a call. The catalog that they will mail out
is a simple brochure of about 8-10 pages, but it
describes several hundred publications.
You will find general tour books as well as specific tour books. Some books will try to cover
the whole of Britain, while others will concentrate on just one county or even one city. There
are books that focus on castles, or stately homes,
or palaces. Books on gardens, walking tours,
boating tours, etc.
The Travel Bookshop Ltd will offer you current
information on how to obtain special tickets or
offerings. For instance, BRITRAIL is a special
price train ticket, heavily discounted, for some
period of time such as two weeks or a month, and
it permits unlimited travel by train for that
period. A BRITRAIL pass must be purchased outside
of Britain, either before you leave the U.S. or in
one of the countries on the European continent.
There are many attractions in England that are
part of a group or an association, and you can
purchase season tickets to see the attractions
which are part of that group. If you're going
over on a business trip, you probably would not
have enough time to see many attractions and
justify one of these season passes, however if you
were planning to spend a week or two of personal
time there, then the season ticket has potential
value to you.
As you read literature regarding travel and
sightseeing in Britain, I would strongly encourage
you to take note of any schedule associated with
the things you're interested in. Some attractions
and facilities may not operate all year long, or
have different schedules depending on the time of
year.
In addition to tour guide books, which give very
good, factual descriptions of a given area or type
of tour, there are also publications devoted to
food and accommodations. This could range from
Bed and Breakfast (B&B) accommodations to the most
elegant hotels. There are books devoted just to
the food and beverages that you will find in
Britain.
But the one thing I think is essential is a map.
That would include 'big picture' maps, showing the
entire country, or area maps, county maps, city
maps, etc, etc. Even if you don't plan to drive
around, I would think you would want some awareness of where you are in relation to things like
London, its airports, where you're staying, where
you're visiting, etc.
The U.K. automobile clubs or associations have
their publications and maps, pretty much like AAA
or other clubs in the U.S. offer. These are generally quite current, accurate and full of facts
about the area described.
You can find specialty maps which, for instance,
might only list where castles and palaces are
located, or ancient ruins, etc. There are maps
which are in book form, and there are those that
are of the foldout type. Personally, I prefer the
book type, primarily because they're easier to
manage in a car, or even in a briefcase or tote
bag.
Depending on your interest, you may wish to get
very detailed maps of some areas. For the most
part, a good road map or book of maps will satisfy
most tourist needs. But if you want detail, there
are publications for that as well. I have a hard
bound book showing all the streets of London, with
major sights or buildings highlighted.
The Travel Bookshop Ltd also offers what are
called ordnance maps for all of Britain. For
England, Wales and Scotland alone there are 203 of
these maps, where each one covers an area about 20
square miles. These maps sell for $8.00 or so but
can be an excellent buy if you need/want that
level of detail. Since I have been a frequent
visitor to the Winchester area, I have ordnance
maps of that area, plus each of the adjacent
areas.
My favorite map book happens to be something
called 'Motoring in the South', published by
Estate Publications, 22a High Street, Tenterden,
Kent TN30 6JB. Unfortunately, this book is not
offered by the Travel Bookshop Ltd, but you could
write directly, or look for this book once you're
in England. I found my copy at the News Agent in
Romsey town centre.
[Return to Table of Contents] When people talk about visiting England, and if I
can assume you mean London and the south of
England, then certain reference points come to my
mind. From Land's End on the southwestern tip of
England, to Dover at the east end of England, is
almost 400 miles, end to end.
England, of course, is separated from the mainland
of Europe (the 'continent') by the English
Channel. At its closest point, England is about
26 miles from the continent. As you look along
the south coast of England, pretty much in the
center, you will find the Isle of Wight (no 'r',
so don't make it Wright). Just north of this is
Southampton, and 10-15 miles north of it is the
Winchester area.
Winchester is located in the county of Hampshire.
Hampshire is often abbreviated Hants, so don't be
confused when you see that kind of reference. I
guess I could also point out that sometimes you'll
see Southampton abbreviated Soton (or So'ton).
On the subject of English counties, I think I
should warn you that the English use some common
names again and again. If someone gives you the
name of place, make sure you have a reference
point. It could be the name of something located
both in the county you're thinking about, as well
as some other county that the person you're
talking with is thinking about. For instance,
there is a Hungerford in both Hampshire and
Berkshire counties. Or, you might get confused
between Leeds of Yorkshire to the north, or Leeds
of Kent to the east. I would hate for you to go
to the wrong place.
Winchester is located about 60 miles west and a
bit south relative to London. Most visitors will
fly into one of London's airports, although it is
possible that one might fly into Manchester say,
in the north of England. London's Heathrow
airport is about 15 miles to the west of the city,
and London's Gatwick airport is about 25 miles
south of the city.
Brighton is on the south coast, about 25 miles
directly south of Gatwick. The town closest to
Gatwick, by the way, is a place called Crawley
(not to be confused with the quaint little village
of Crawley in Hants). Anyway, Brighton is quite
the seaside kind of town and a popular holiday
spot for the English during the summer. Be prepared for people and traffic.
From London to Dover, or Gatwick to Dover, is
about 70 miles. You might think about distances
such as this if you plan a driving tour. If you
drive from Gatwick south to Brighton, and then
west to Southampton, the distance from Brighton to
Soton is about 60 miles. That drive will take you
along the A27 much of the way, and you have to be
prepared that the A27 goes through most town
centres. Around Portsmouth, you run into the
motorway M27, so the last 20 miles to Soton will
be like a U.S. Interstate highway.
If you were a crow, you could fly 60 miles or so
on a direct line from London to Winchester, in a
southwesterly direction. Unfortunately, few of us
are crows, so we'll have to be content with using
roads such as the M23/M25/M3 to get from Gatwick
to Winchester, and that distance is more like 70
miles.
Once settled in the Winchester area, should you
venture to the west, you may find yourself covering a lot of distance. Plan for it and then you
can enjoy it. From Winchester (or Southampton) to
Land's End on the southwestern tip of England is
about 200 miles.
If you have a car, you'll probably consider
driving up to Bath and Bristol. That will be
about 75 miles northwest from Winchester, but
there is so much to see along that route, you'll
probably put on another 75 miles just winding on
and off the main route.
You might consider going due north of Winchester
and up to Oxford one day. That trip will be an
easy 50 miles. Another 30 miles and you can be in
the Stratford-upon-Avon area (for you Shakespeare
buffs), and another 5 miles to Warwick (pronounced
war-ick) and one of the finest castles in England.
For people who really enjoy touring by car, it's
about 200 miles due north of Winchester before you
get to Leeds, and then another 25 miles to York.
You're now into the Yorkshire area to the east,
with fascinating places such as York, Scarborough,
Castle Howard, and so on.
From Leeds, going 60-70 miles northwest, you would
enter the so-called Lake District. Beautiful!
But once everyone else knows this, you and they
will be contending for single lane traffic, no
vacancy signs, and more people than you might otherwise care for.
If it's Scotland you're interested in, that's
another 100 miles north of Leeds before you get to
Hadrian's Wall and the beginnings of a different
country.
If it is Wales you're interested in, going northwest from Winchester, after the 75 miles that took
you to Bath and Bristol, you continue on into
Wales, with the Cardiff area being just a short
40-50 miles further. After that, you're on your
own. If you were to travel the perimeter of
Wales, you could easily put on 100 miles on the
south coast, 100 miles on the west coast, and
still another 100 miles on the north coast before
re-entering England up in the Liverpool and
Manchester area.
I'll stop here with the verbal sketch of a
roadmap, but the point is there is lots to see and
do in the south of England. You should plan
ahead, pick out points of interest, know where
they are, and try to formulate an itinerary that
meets your interest. And as you develop this
plan, make sure you allow ample time for driving
the route you lay out, and time to stop along the
way to enjoy what you came to see. Don't try to
do too much at one time or all you will see is the
road.
In other sections of this book, I will describe
the driving tours I have taken, the sights I have
seen and would recommend, and try to offer you
some suggestions as to how you might spend a day
or a week, touring this most enjoyable country.
[Return to Table of Contents] Gatwick is one of two major airports in the London
area, Heathrow being the other. Gatwick is basically south of the city and Heathrow is to the
west. Both have train service to and from London,
as well as hire car (rental) companies such as
Hertz, Avis and others.
Let me first talk about arriving at Gatwick and
then later make some comments about arriving at
Heathrow. Arrival is pretty much the same at
either airport. If you follow the signs, you
shouldn't really have a problem. And with even
the most basic map of the London area, I'm sure
you'll be able to orient yourself with little difficulty.
For visitors to IBM at Hursley Park, Winchester,
you can call or write in advance to arrange for a
car and driver to meet you when your flight
arrives at either airport. The driver will accept
British Pound Sterling only. The one-way trip to
Winchester is about 60 miles west of London, so
the fare is substantial. Ask in advance, so that
you know what to expect.
For first time visitors from the U.S., having a
car and driver meet you is probably a wise thing
to do. Most flights are overnight and unless
you're an experienced international traveller,
your internal clock is bound to be off by quite a
bit. Having the driver take you directly to your
hotel avoids any risk of you being tired and not
in the best condition to drive or otherwise travel
on your own.
If you fly an American carrier, when your plane
lands at Gatwick, you may arrive at what they call
a satellite terminal. The plane will park at a
terminal gate, and from the satellite terminal you
will take a short ride on an automated train to
the main terminal.
If you fly British Airways and land at Gatwick,
your plane will arrive at the newer north terminal. Passport control, baggage, customs and so
on will be similar, but let me describe the main
terminal, which is what I'm most familiar with.
[Return to Table of Contents] Your first challenge is to endure what usually is
a slow process through Passport Control. Your
flight was probably a large wide-body jet, with
hundreds of passengers. Add to that, that other
flights may have just arrived about the same time
and there may be upwards of one thousand people
trying to get through Passport Control as you do.
Just before landing, the flight attendants on your
plane should have distributed blank 'landing
cards' to be filled out by non-UK citizens. The
card is simple in that you give some basic identification and state where you will be staying
while in the UK. You must present this card along
with your passport at Passport Control. If you
did not obtain one of these cards while on your
plane, there are blank forms on tables in the
Passport Control area.
Passport Control is divided into two sections basically. To one side, people from the so-called
EEC countries can move through the control point
The EEC is the European Economic Community, where
member countries have certain agreements regarding
commerce and movement of people between the countries.
For U.S. citizens, you will go through the 'other'
side of Passport Control. Pick any line. There
is rarely an advantage of one line versus any
other. When you reach the desk, you will be asked
basic questions such as how long you plan to stay,
what the purpose of your visit is, and so on. You
can say business and/or pleasure, the company
you're with, that you're going to a meeting,
staying on to tour a bit, whatever.
If you happen to be coming over for a residency or
assignment, be prepared to answer questions
regarding a work permit. For stays of longer than
90 days, the United Kingdom requires a preprocessed work permit. There is no visa required to
visit the U.K. however, if someone will be there
for over 90 days and working, you must have an
approved work permit. Whatever you do, don't say
you're over to 'work' without having a work
permit.
[Return to Table of Contents] After you clear Passport Control at Gatwick, you
find yourself in a lobby-like area, usually with
people looking up at television monitors. What
they, and you, are looking for is the number of a
baggage carousel where your flight's luggage (and
hopefully yours) will be delivered. You will take
the stairs or escalator to your right or left and
go upstairs to the baggage claim area.
It's not unusual for you to wait a bit for the
baggage handlers to post your flight on the television monitors. If you plan to take the train
into London, there is a ticket counter located in
this waiting area. The train from Gatwick to
London leaves very frequently (every 15 minutes at
peak periods) and will take you to Victoria
Station. Do not consider taking a taxi from the
airport into London because it would be quite
expensive.
If you are staying in London initially, you probably will want to get settled quickly, so a pleasurable ride in a London taxi would prob
ably be
your first choice to get from Victoria Station to
your hotel. The London taxi drivers are excellent, and the taxis themselves are almost always
in fine condition. Your taxi driver knows the
city well and should have little difficulty
locating your hotel or other lodging.
If you are taking trains to the Winchester area,
you will first take the train from Gatwick to
Victoria, then (I would recommend) a taxi over to
Waterloo Station, and from there a train to
Winchester, Eastleigh or Southampton, whatever
your destination. I doubt that you would be
staying at Basingstoke, but it would be the stop
just before Winchester.
Door to door time using trains might be something
like three hours. I would allow about one hour to
get from Gatwick to London, up to an hour waiting
for the next train to Winchester, and then an hour
for that train ride. Assuming you're staying in
one of the local hotels, that would be a very
short taxi ride from your destination train
station. By the way, do have English currency and
coin, to pay the driver, and maybe even to call
for a taxi.
But back to Gatwick and finding your luggage.
Once upstairs in the baggage claim area, you will
probably see people in a bit of a rush, scurrying
around trying to find a baggage or luggage trolley
(cart). Unless you travel very light, you may as
well get a trolley too. It will be a long walk to
either the train, rental cars or car park (parking
lot).
Be patient, your luggage will arrive. As you look
around you, you probably will see a typical mix of
people, also waiting for their luggage. And let's
face it, most of them are tired, as you are, and
some are concerned about things like the language,
getting to their next destination, etc.
[Return to Table of Contents] Once you have your luggage, proceed to the customs
area. What you will see are red and green signs
basically saying stop if you have something to
declare or proceed if you have nothing to declare.
If you have purchased some duty free merchandise
coming into England, unless you have exceeded the
limits, there is no need to go through the red
line (channel). If you are a smoker, realize
there is a limit on the amount of tobacco you can
bring into the country.
Most people will pass through the green line of
customs. Just 'go with the flow' and proceed
through the green line as quickly as the number of
people will allow. Don't be surprised if you or
someone is 'pulled aside' as a spot check. This
may amount to nothing more than one or two
questions, or if your baggage appears unusual,
they may ask other questions or have you open your
bags.
Once through customs, you will pass into the lobby
area of Gatwick. I hate to say it but this area
is usually a mob of people, all waiting for
someone to arrive. Initially, you will have an
area to push your baggage (luggage) trolley, but
once outside the fenced area, you're 'on your
own'. You have to negotiate your trolley as best
you can.
You can continue to use your trolley throughout
the airport including the customs area, to the car
park, automobile rental areas and so. The
trolleys are collected and returned to the baggage
claim area.
[Return to Table of Contents] Having talked about the main terminal at Gatwick,
let me know say a few things about the North Terminal at Gatwick and Heathrow. If you fly British
Air and land at Gatwick, you will use the North
Terminal. It's new, bigger and probably has more
shops than the main terminal. But it also has a
few quirks because it is 'the addition'.
Basically the North Terminal is a three level
building. You arrive at the middle level and go
through passport control. You will collect your
baggage and pick up your rental car or driver on
the lower level. If you have not exchanged any
money, you'll have to go back up to the middle
level to visit the bank.
There is a train to and from the Gatwick South
Terminal, should you need it on arrival or departure. As I said there are many new shops, and on
all levels of the North Terminal. If you're a
shopper, I think you'll like the North Terminal.
If you are renting a car, you'll find the major
rental companies on the lower level of the North
Terminal, and you probably can walk to your car as
you leave. But be aware that on leaving Gatwick,
you must return your car at the South Terminal and
take the shuttle train to the North Terminal.
Departure at the North Terminal begins with the
ticket counters on the upper level, but actual
boarding of flights will be on the terminal's
middle level, just the same as your initial
arrival. If this sounds confusing, "just follow
the signs".
Arrival at Heathrow is not as confusing. Follow
the ARRIVALS sign to the Immigration Hall and go
through passport control. Then you will proceed
downstairs to claim your baggage. Customs has the
same red and green channels, just as with Gatwick,
after which you will be in the Arrivals Hall to
start your journey to London or Winchester.
[Return to Table of Contents] If you're expecting to be met by a car and driver,
you'll see many drivers displaying a card with the
name or names of people they are there to meet.
If you don't see your driver, push your baggage
trolley through the area and look for the Information counter which is among the other counters in
front of you. There you can ask about the car and
driver you're expecting.
If you did not come with traveller's checks or
money already exchanged, this might be a good spot
to get some British Pounds Sterling to get you
started. Coming with traveller's checks in U.S.
dollars means you'll have to exchange them for
pounds once in England. Use banks (at the airport,
in town, or at IBM) for currency exchange. You'll
get a better exchange rate than at your hotel, for
instance.
If you came with traveller's checks in pounds,
that's fine, but you'll have to cash that somewhere to get actual pounds. If you came with just
U.S. currency, don't leave the airport without
having at least some British currency. The bank
at the airport is a good place to get your initial
supply of British currency. Unless you're a
stickler for exchange rates, I would say trust
that the major bank at the airport will have a
competitive exchange rate.
Now, you have your baggage, your money, and you're
ready to go. If you have been met by car and
driver, let him (or her) carry on from here. Your
next stop will be your hotel. By the way, you can
arrange for a car to take you to London, just as
easily as taking you to Winchester. You may wish
to spend your first day or so in London before
coming down to Winchester.
If you're not being met by car and driver, you
must be planning to use the train or a rental car.
If you are travelling by train, follow the signs
to the train. If you did not purchase a train
ticket in the Passport Control lobby, there are
other ticket stalls enroute to the train station.
I don't think you'll have any difficulty from this
point. When your train comes in, toss your bags
aboard and have a pleasant short ride into London.
See you later.
If you plan to hire (rent) a car, you have a ways
to go just yet. Follow the signs, closely. First
you push your baggage trolley some distance to
exit the airport terminal lobby, to a point where
the signs give you a choice of car park, or the
curb if you happen to be met by someone you know.
But for the rental cars, negotiate your baggage
trolley down the ramps, three flights to the true
ground level.
Once outdoors, bear to the right and keep going
along the walkway until you finally see the Hertz,
Avis and other signs. IBM in Europe has a corporate contract with Avis. Some visitors to Hursley
will arrange for a car and driver to meet their
flight and take them to their hotel initially, but
also make arrangements for a rental car while at
Hursley.
Avis will deliver a car to your hotel or to the
Hursley Lab for a fee (about 25 pounds). You can
also have them pick up the car at your hotel or
you can leave the car at Hursley for their pick
up. This would enable you to arrange for a car
and driver to take you to the airport and not have
to drive and return the rental car to the airport.
Its your choice.
Hertz will honor the IBM corporate contract as
well, and my own personal experience is that I see
little major difference between Hertz and Avis. I
prefer Hertz because I think their airport operation is bit more efficient and there are more
Hertz locations throughout England, should I have
need to contact them during my stay.
When reserving a rental car in England, do not
assume you will get an automatic transmission.
Manual transmission is the standard and an automatic is considered exceptional. So, if you're
not familiar with 'stick shift' make sure you
reserve your car with automatic transmission ahead
of time.
And remember, in England, the steering wheel is on
the right side of the car, and you drive on the
left side of the road. Your U.S. driver's
license is acceptable for stays of less than one
year and major credit cards can be used to charge
your rental.
I have been travelling to England two and three
times per year since 1975 and it's my habit to
pick up a rental car on arrival, do a bit of
touring, my first day, and probably more touring
on any intervening weekends, should I be staying
for longer than one week. But again, a reminder,
don't drive on arrival unless you are rested and
you are familiar with driving on the 'wrong' side
of the road.
If you landed at Gatwick's North Terminal or
Heathrow, the logistics are bit different, but
fundamentally you'll be doing the same kinds of
things; exchanging money, finding your car and
driver, or picking up your rental car. I wouldn't
be concerned about the minor differences between
the airport terminals.
[Return to Table of Contents] There are probably four basic ways of getting from
Gatwick Airport to the Winchester area. First,
there is the car and driver. For first time, or
other visitors, this is probably a popular choice.
Let the driver do the work, so to speak. You are
tired by your long trip, you may not know exactly
where you're going, and you'll worry about other
transportation for your stay a bit later.
To arrange for a car and driver, call or write to
the people you will be visiting in Hursley, and
they can arrange for someone to meet your flight
on arrival. A car and driver can also be
requested to pick you up at your hotel for transport to or from Hursley.
If you plan to rent a car while in Hursley, your
contact can book (reserve) an Avis car for your
use. You can arrange to have your Avis car delivered to the Hursley Lab or to your hotel upon your
arrival.
If you have a car and driver transport you between
Gatwick and Winchester, or reverse, remember that
you will pay the driver, much like a taxi or limousine. Ask for an approximate charge when you
request a car and driver such that you can have
sufficient cash (pounds) to pay the fare. A ten
percent tip would be appropriate. Drivers do not
accept credit cards or travellers checks. The
distance from Gatwick to Winchester is about sixty
miles, so the fare will be substantial.
[Return to Table of Contents] The second method of getting from Gatwick to
Winchester is by train. You would take the train
from Gatwick to London, arriving at Victoria
Station. If you are staying in London for a day
or so before proceeding to Winchester, you probably would take a taxi to your hotel. When preparing to take the train to Winchester, you
probably will take a taxi to Waterloo Station,
which is where the Winchester train will depart.
The train to Winchester leaves from Gatwick's
South Terminal just about every hour, at least
during peak periods. On weekends, it may be every
other hour. And the normal operating periods for
the train are something like 6:00 AM to Midnight.
You can pay for your train ticket in pounds or
charge it to major credit cards such as American
Express or VISA.
The distance from Waterloo to Winchester is about
sixty miles, so the train ride will be about one
hour. The stop before Winchester is Basingstoke,
where major IBM facilities are located, such as
the IBM UK Field Systems Center (FSC). It is
doubtful that a Hursley visitor would stay there,
but you may hear Basingstoke mentioned.
Basingstoke is about twenty miles north of
Winchester.
If you have keen eyes, or your train is at night,
you may be able to see the IBM 'high rise'
building from the train. If you are facing
forward on the train, look out the left side of
the train as you stop or pass through the city
centre of Basingstoke, and you should be able to
spot the IBM building.
After Basingstoke, the next three stops are
Winchester, Eastleigh and Southampton. The most
likely stop for many visitors to Hursley will be
Winchester. There are a number of hotels in
Winchester which are used by visitors, and it's
only a short five mile trip south to Hursley.
I mention Eastleigh because
there is at least one major hotel in Eastleigh
that is used by visitors to Hursley, and that is
the Forte Crest Hotel. Eastleigh is four miles south and east
of Hursley, or six miles south of Winchester.
Be aware that not all trains stop at Eastleigh.
Most trains stop at Basingstoke, Winchester and
Southampton. This train, by the way, can be used
to get from Heathrow Airport to Winchester. If
you are not travelling by car, there is a shuttle
bus (coach) which can take you from Heathrow to a
place called Woking, and there you can catch the
London to Winchester train.
As with Eastleigh, the reason I mention
Southampton is because some visitors may get reservations made at hotels in that city.
Southampton is a larger city than Winchester and
has a number of hotels that might be used.
Depending on the time of year, and events that
might be happening, the limited number of hotel
rooms in Winchester may result in Hursley visitors
being booked into hotel rooms in other nearby
towns. Southampton is about ten to fifteen miles
south of Winchester, depending on which part of
Southampton you're interested in.
The trains are comfortable, usually on time and
fast. There are some very modern trains running,
but there are also some of the older trains in
service, which are still quite good. There are
smoking and non-smoking sections, where smoking
may be limited to the club car only.
Now, other than car and driver or use of the
trains, a third way for you to get to your
Winchester area destination is to have someone
meet you. That happens once in a while, if you
have a friend or some special circumstance. I
leave you to manage this yourself.
[Return to Table of Contents] If you plan to use trains to get from London's
Heathrow Airport, you have a couple of alternatives. If you are going into London first, you
would use the so-called Underground. The Underground is much like a U.S. subway train or
commuter train. Leaving Heathrow you would be
using the so-called Picadilly Line. Read the
signs ahead of time and if you don't know where to
get off, ask one of the Underground employees.
Coming into London on the Picadilly Line, you
could get off at some stop near your hotel and
either hand carry your bags or hail one of the
famous London taxis. I should repeat my earlier
comment and that is, don't take a taxi from the
airport into London because that would be quite
expensive. You could take a bus from Heathrow to
London and it will deliver you at Victoria (train)
Station, from which you could take a taxi to your
hotel.
If you wanted to, you could transfer from the
Picadilly Line to the Northern Line at Leicester
(Le'ster) Square and that could take you to
Waterloo (train) Station, where you could catch a
train to Winchester. An easier method however
would be to take a bus from Heathrow to a town
called Woking and there catch the train to
Winchester.
Heathrow is on the west side of London and Woking
is a bit south of Heathrow. The London/Winchester
train stops at Woking on its way to or from
Winchester (and other points west). Look for
'Railair' signs if you want to use the
Heathrow/Woking link to the train.
[Return to Table of Contents] So, lastly, let's assume you will drive from the
Gatwick or London area to the Winchester area. If
you have someone along with you, one can be the
driver and the other a navigator. Depending on
how you go, what your interests are and how
familiar you are with driving in England, you may
need the help of a navigator. Unless you're experienced with driving in England, driving on the
'wrong side of the road', and looking for signs,
might be a challenge for most.
There are books available on driving in England,
and you might also pick up a reference card from
the auto rental companies, which will describe the
international road signs and some of the rules of
the road. For instance, keep left unless passing,
no turns on red, watch out for yellow flashing
lights and/or painted walkways for pedestrians, a
car in the roundabout has the right-of-way, and no
passing on the left. Happy motoring.
If you stay in London before coming down to
Winchester, I can't imagine why anyone would want
a car in London. Driving in London can be very
confusing, even for those familiar with the city,
and parking can be difficult and expensive. There
is excellent public transportation in London by
means of taxi, the underground (or tube as they
might call it) and busses. A minor note here; a
subway is an underground walkway, not a train
which runs underground.
But after having stayed in London for some time,
you may wish to pick up a rental car and drive
down to Winchester. I would suggest you take
something like the A4 west out of the city, connecting with the M4, and probably passing by
Windsor (Castle) enroute to the west and south.
Once well outside of London, you would have to
plan your itinerary, for instance dropping south
off the M4 using something like the M25 and connecting to the M3 for your journey west to
Winchester.
Highways in England are designated by letters such
as M, A, or B. An M road is a Motorway, much like
a U.S. Interstate highway, with high speed limited
access and exit. An A road is a major highway
similar to a U.S. numbered highway, which very
likely will pass through urban and country areas.
The speed limit on a motorway is 70 miles per hour
and on most A roads the limit is 60 miles per
hour.
A B road is a marked highway, but not up to the
same standards as an A road. B roads are usually
a bit narrower, and not necessarily a straight
line. There are certainly other unmarked roads,
but I leave that to you to discover.
Assuming you have picked up a rental car at
Gatwick Airport, you have basically three or four
ways to get to the Winchester area. And even
then, I'm assuming your first destination after
arrival is to get to your hotel in the Winchester
area. Later, I will describe some other touring
that one might do on arrival, which would not be a
direct route from Gatwick to Winchester.
[Return to Table of Contents] The four routes which come to mind for getting
from Gatwick to Winchester are the following. You
can take mostly motorway, using the M23, M25, and
M3 to Winchester. Fast but not very scenic. The
M25 is referred to as the Orbital, which loops
around London, and traffic can be quite heavy.
This would be much like beltways that circumvent
some U.S. cities.
If you were driving from Heathrow to Winchester,
you would have a short drive from the airport to
connect to the M3 and continue southwesterly to
Winchester. Instead of using the M3 to
Winchester, you might consider a using the M4
northwest to Oxford and later the A34 south to
Winchester.
But back to Gatwick, you could take M23 and A23
south to the A27, and then west to Southampton,
and the A33 north to Winchester. Interesting, but
not very fast.
Or you might go as the hired car and drivers used
to go before the M25 was completed. That would be
the A217 to Reigate, A25 to Dorking and Guildford,
and then the A31 west and south to Winchester.
Assuming you're not travelling at some peak
period, this can be a reasonably quick, straightforward, and somewhat scenic route to Winchester.
The only other route I might suggest would be for
the unusual alternative. Although it would be
mostly due west from Gatwick to Winchester using
the A272, this is not a route I would recommend.
It's neither fast or scenic, and it's mostly
narrow road where if you get stuck behind a lorry
(truck), you'll have even slower going. However,
some people may like it, so if you insist, take
the the M23/A23 south to the A272 and then west to
Winchester. See you there.
Of these four alternatives, I have no favorite and
a lot may depend on whether I wanted to take a
side trip or not. For instance, I might want to
take some first time visitor off to see Windsor
Castle enroute to Winchester. In this case, I
would head north from Gatwick on the M23 and M25
to the M4 headed west to Windsor. After touring
the castle, grounds, and town centre, you could
proceed west on the M4 to Reading (pronounced
'redding'), and then the A33 south to Basingstoke,
and then the M3 to Winchester.
On another trip, I might wish to take a side trip
off the A27 as I motor across the south of
England. A favorite place of mine is Arundel
which is on the A27 about twenty miles west of
Brighton. Arundel is the site of one of the best
maintained castles in all of England. More on
this later. For a trip such as this, I would
leave Gatwick, headed south on the M23/A23 to
Brighton on the English Channel, and then west on
the A27, stopping at Arundel, enroute to
Southampton and Winchester.
The A217/A25/A31 route takes you through interesting towns, and its up to you if you'd like to
stop along the way. If you arrive in England on a
Saturday or Sunday, there is likely to be a car
boot sale (flea market out of the trunk of people's cars), or most any kind of event where you
can just pull off the road and see for yourself.
Realize that if you decide to take side trips
along the way to Winchester, it extends your
travel time. To drive directly using the
M23/M25/M3 route, for instance, would take you
about ninety minutes to cover the seventy miles.
Add any other indirect mileage and touring time to
this base time.
I have on a number of occasions, landed at Gatwick
at 8:30AM, taken an hour to get through Passport
Control, customs and get my rental car, so as to
be on the road at 9:30AM. Ninety minutes for the
most direct route, plus an hour of side roads and
an hour of some tour could make it mid-afternoon
before I got to Winchester.
And I should caution you about getting meals or
drink on arrival. Although the law has changed
recently affecting when pubs can be open and
serving liquor, you still may not find eat and
drink as accessible as you would in the U.S. It
is not uncommon for a pub to be open say only from
11:00AM to 2:00PM to serve a noontime meal. And
although some village pubs serve food at the noon
hour during the week, they may not have food
service on the weekend.
There are 'fast food' places such as the Little
Chef along the British highways. If you miss a
meal at a proper restaurant or pub, you can always
get something to eat at one of these stops,
however the quality of food will be nothing exceptional.
[Return to Table of Contents] In this section I will try to describe the hotels
that I have stayed at or the ones that people are
likely to stay at when visiting IBM Hursley, near
Winchester. The Forte Crest Hotel in Winchester
is probably the likely choice for most first time
visitors because it is located in town centre,
within walking distance of shops, restaurants and
some tourist attractions. The Crest was formerly
the Wessex Hotel, so be prepared to hear it
referred to it as such.
The Moat House is fairly new in Winchester (1989).
Originally known as the Saxon, it has a small
indoor swimming pool and also a small exercise
room. The Royal is an older hotel, also located
in Winchester, and used frequently by visitors to
the area.
Just a short distance south of Hursley village in
Ampfield is the Potters Heron. An odd name for a
hotel, but none the less a popular place because
it is a modern country hotel (motel) and by not
being in any town as such, it is not congested by
traffic.
A bit west of Winchester, and Hursley, is Lainston
House, a renovated country manor house. If
footmen to greet your car on arrival, an oak
paneled bar, and French or Continental cuisine are
your kind of thing, then the Lainston House is
your kind of place. Located near the village of
Sparsholt, Lainston House is truly in the country,
with little within walking distance except for the
native deer, rabbits, pheasant and such.
About five miles southwest of Hursley is the town
of Romsey, and the White Horse Hotel. The rooms
are small and the floors creak, but your room with
private bath has much of the old world charm of
England. And Romsey, albeit smaller than
Winchester, has its share of shops and restaurants.
On my first visit to the Winchester area in 1975,
I stayed at the New Forest Lodge, located about
ten miles southwest of Hursley in Ower. Ower is
more a crossroad or roundabout than a town, but
still I found the Lodge to be warm and comfortable. This was my first occasion to see the
horses of the New Forest, which I will describe
later.
A very modern hotel is the Forte Crest in
Eastleigh. Eastleigh is about four miles south
and east of Hursley, or six miles south of
Winchester. The Crest is large, has an ample car
park, and is the most likely choice for someone
visiting IBM at Hursley.
At times, the hotels of Winchester can be quite
full and as a result you may find yourself staying
some distance away. The city of Southampton is
about fifteen miles south of Winchester. You may
hear varying distances quoted, but then it depends
on what is being referenced.
Hilton Hotels have opened a new hotel complex
(1990) just north of Southampton on the A33. You
may like it because of familiarity, but why travel
all this way to stay in an American-based hotel
chain? The A33 has been torn up with construction, so your commute to Hursley and/or
Winchester could be congested one.
The 'old guard' in Southampton is the Polygon
Hotel. No question but that it is an old hotel,
but somewhat modernized. For whatever reason, if
the local society holds an affair, it most likely
will be at the Polygon.
Down near the docks (Southampton is a major
seaport), is a high rise hotel that I know as the
Post Hotel. The Post reminds me of a Howard
Johnson's type of hotel or motel because of its
motif or atmosphere.
There are a number of pubs in the area where
people have stayed and have been quite comfortable. Realize that you're not talking about a
Class A hotel, but the stay can be a pleasant and
different experience.
Some people will look into Bed and Breakfast (B&B)
accommodations for their visit to England but I
doubt that a business or first-time traveller
would consider it. B&B accommodations are most
often sleeping rooms in private homes, with
minimal services or conveniences. For instance,
few B&Bs would offer a shower and shared bathrooms
are common.
There are probably other hotels that I have not
mentioned that one might considering using. Some
friends of mine have stayed at the Rose and Crown
in Salisbury, twenty-five miles away from
Winchester. Or the Fifehead, located in Middle
Wallop, about fifteen miles from Winchester or
Hursley. I have stayed there, in a converted carriage house (horse barn) and thoroughly enjoyed
it. There is much to experience in this part of
England.
[Return to Table of Contents] To expand a bit on some of the hotels mentioned
thus far, let me begin by giving you some personal
descriptions. I'll start with the Crest Hotel in
Winchester. Again, this hotel used to be called
the Wessex Hotel and people may still refer to it
by its old name.
The Crest is tucked away on a 'side street' called
Paternoster Row. If you happen to drive to
Winchester on your own, be prepared that the Crest
is not very visible. You have to know where it
is. The simplest landmark I could give is that
the Crest is directly next to Winchester
Cathedral, and even though it lacks a spire of any
height, at least you can see the Cathedral from
most vantage points. Or people can give you
directions to the Cathedral.
Coming into Winchester, from the north or south,
it should not be hard to get into town centre. A
landmark to look for is King Alfred's statue which
stands very tall near a major roundabout (traffic
circle) in the centre of town. From the statue
you can look directly past the Guildhall (on your
left) and straight up High Street, most of which
is a pedestrian walkway (mall).
If you drive just past the Guildhall, look for a
very small street on your left, called Colebrook.
For new drivers, be careful and be patient - two
cars can pass on this narrow street. Once beyond
this orifice, you'll see a very modern three story
hotel. Parking will be a challenge, so let me
explain.
You can pull up to the front door of the Crest,
unload your bags, and ask the 'hall porter' to
unlock the chains which limit the parking under
one section of the hotel, and on one section of
street parking. If you're unable to park there,
there is a city car park within your sight, where
you can purchase tickets for so many hours of
parking between 8:00AM and 6:00PM daily.
The rooms at the Crest are really quite comfortable and modern. They are furnished well. The
baths are modern. Each room has an electric
kettle to heat water for tea or coffee, and each
day the hotel will leave you a chocolate wafer or
some other treat that you can enjoy. Each room
has television and telephone. The hotel has daily
laundry and dry cleaning.
There are two restaurants in the Crest. One is a
coffee shop, open long hours per day, serving
breakfast, lunch and dinner. The other restaurant
is more formal, quite good, and a bit on the
expensive side. There is a hotel bar, or pub,
open only at designated hours, however as a guest
of the hotel, you can get room service at most any
time. The hotel bar also serves afternoon tea,
and occasionally has someone playing the piano for
your enjoyment.
As I said earlier, the Crest is a popular choice
for first time visitors, visitors with someone
travelling with them, or simply visitors who enjoy
staying in town centre. It is convenient to walk
to the shops during midday (most shops are typically
open from say 9:30AM to 5:30PM). In addition to the
restaurants in the hotel, there are
many eating places and pubs in town centre within
easy walking distance.
The Winchester Cathedral is directly adjacent to
the Crest Hotel, and if your room is on that side
of the hotel, you can often hear the choir and/or
the church bells. If your room is on the other
side of the hotel, you can usually hear the stores
along High Street get their morning deliveries
(ugh).
Other tourist attractions nearby would be the
Winchester Museum, just off the Cathedral grounds,
a short distance from the hotel. Or the Great
Hall, up High Street and near the West Gate
(remains of the old city wall). At the Great Hall
is what is reputed to be King Arthur's round
table. Many of the buildings adjacent to the
Great Hall are city and judicial buildings, built
on the remains of what was once called Winchester
Palace. Some of the old city wall is excavated
and visible near the Great Hall.
For the energetic, if you leave the hotel, walk
past the Guildhall and King Alfred, you can follow
Bridge Street, over the River Itchen, and up St.
Giles Hill for a most panoramic view of the city.
There are other attractions in Winchester, but let
me leave that for later. Before concluding my
mention of the Crest Hotel, I must say that I
usually do not stay there, by personal preference,
because I always have a rental car and I enjoy the
country hotels more than the city and its parking
and traffic.
[Return to Table of Contents] My personal favorite over the years has been the
Potters Heron. It has its faults, I'm sure, but
then life is a compromise. All things considered,
I like the Potters. The name has its origins in
that the area was once noted for its clay soil and
potting industry. The heron must have flown in to
check out a pottery bird bath, I don't know.
What I like about the Potters is that it is quiet
and country. You can hear the birds sing in the
morning. You don't hear the Cathedral bells or
the High Street delivery lorries (trucks). Except
for the large pub crowd each evening, there is
easy car parking, and in/out access because of
virtually no traffic.
The hotel is quite modern and has most amenities,
such as private bath, shower, telephone, television, electric kettle, etc. Daily laundry,
daily newspapers (except no International Herald
Tribune, which is available at the Winchester
Forte Crest).
Breakfast is included in many English hotel room
charges but that may vary by corporate contract.
At the Potters breakfast is served in the same
restaurant as formal meals in the evening. At one
time, the Potters had a separate breakfast room,
but that has since been converted into a hotel
meeting room. The Potters does a lot of small
meeting business so be prepared for some unusual
events (wine sales, etc).
I like the Potters because each room has a comfortable sitting area, and a small patio or
balcony which allows you to step out into the
country air. If you're a jogger, you can jog in
town while staying at the Winchester Forte Crest,
probably circling the Cathedral property, but at
the Potters, you can jog down country roads or
into something called the Ampfield Wood.
The pub at the Potters is a very popular meeting
(and drinking) place. They serve food at the
Potters pub but as pubs go, I would recommend
other pubs for pub food. In the warmer weather,
the pub crowd will spill outside to the tables and
umbrellas, but in the winter months, the pub
inside is literally full.
The Potters is just a mile south of the IBM
Hursley Lab, so it does make for an easy commute,
both morning and evenings.
[Return to Table of Contents] The Lainston House is a converted manor house,
which has very modern sleeping room accommodations. Similar to the Potters, the Lainston
House is clearly a country atmosphere. Perhaps
too much so. Lainston does not have the pub
traffic that the Potters has, so it tends to be
limited to guests, and those visiting with the
guests, or the occasional dining party.
You may enjoy seeing the extensive wood paneling
in the hotel's pub, reputedly fitted out from a
single oak tree in the 1930s. A waiter once told
me the story of Lady Chutley who, legend has it,
haunts the hotel with her walks during the wee
hours of the morning.
The property surrounding the House is interesting.
At dusk, or dawn, should you stroll the grounds,
it's not uncommon to see the wildlife at your
doorstep, so to speak. There are no fences to
limit the deer in or out, or the rabbits to
scurry, or the pheasants to flit their plumes.
The commute from Winchester and the Forte Crest
Hotel to Hursley has a morning and evening 'rush
hour', where the single lane streets can limit
traffic flow. The commute to and from the Potters
is hardly an effort. The commute between the
Lainston House and IBM Hursley probably means
using the Sparsholt Road. Be aware that that
means a one lane country road - not one lane both
ways, but one lane, period.
[Return to Table of Contents] The Crest Hotel is a modern hotel in Eastleigh. It
has ample parking, modern rooms, and all the conveniences one expects from a new hotel. It is
just off the A33 highway at the A335 exit. The
Crest is next to some buildings referred to as
Home Farm, which is often used as an IBM education facility.
Commuting from the Crest to/from Hursley is not
difficult, but it can have some morning and
evening traffic. One would use the B3043 as a
primary route to get to and from the Lab, and this
causes you to pass through the 'bedroom community'
(suburb) of Chandlers Ford, which is where many
people who work at Hursley live. The result is a
bit of traffic, but it's manageable.
The Crest is part of a major hotel chain, not only
in England, but with hotels throughout Europe. It
probably has the most up to date reservation
system, where you could deal directly with the
front desk if you were planning a weekend trip, or
maybe some continuation after your visit to
England. If you were staying at one of the other
hotels in the area, and you wanted travel assistance, I would suggest you use the travel agent
located at IBM Hursley. They are quite helpful.
[Return to Table of Contents] Should you stay at one of the other hotels, I
would say, enjoy it. Sure, most people will find
it 'different'. But isn't that what you would
expect? If you want Holiday Inn, go to Memphis.
If you stay at the Polygon in Southampton, talk to
the Hall Porter and ask for some restaurant suggestions. I have learned of some interesting
places that way.
There is a small B&B-like pub and hotel in
Winchester called the Wykeham Arms where some
people like to stay. Or the Royal Hotel is
another hotel in Winchester that you might consider. You might enjoy a small country hotel such
as the Fifehead in Middle Wallop. I don't enjoy
the old White Horse Hotel in Romsey, but many do.
Should you stay at the Fifehead, I would make two
comments. First, the restaurant is excellent, but
on the expensive side. The hotel by the way is
highly regarded in England. The other point is
that being in the country, although it's not a
walk, I found the three villages of Nether Wallop,
Middle Wallop and Over Wallop most charming.
Thatched roofs, rippling brook, country air.
You'll enjoy it.
If you stay at the White Horse in Romsey, you'll
find a bit of midday shopping around you. Romsey
Abbey is a landmark and you should stop in, any
day of the week, but why not Sunday. Also nearby
is Broadlands, the one-time home of Lord
Mountbatten. I enjoy the museum devoted to his
military career more so than the manor house. His
grandson, Lord Romsey currently lives at
Broadlands.
The Potters has full length movies on one of their
television channels each night, at no charge. The
Eastleigh Forte Crest has pay TV similar to
Spectravision in the U.S. Most hotels do not have
TV movies.
There are sports centres next to the Eastleigh
Forte Crest Hotel and near the Winchester Forte
Crest Hotel, both of which have indoor swimming,
squash courts, badminton, etc.
I probably should mention that I do not travel
with electrical appliances of any kind. If you
do, about the only general recommendation I can
make is that you travel with an adapter kit that
has multiple plugs. It seems that I have seen a
variety of walls plugs and no single type is used.
Some hotels, such as the Potters Heron, provide
hair dryers in each room, or the hotel will loan
such items as dryers or clothes irons.
If you have battery operated or dual voltage small
appliances, that's fine, otherwise the basic
concern is the voltage and cycle differences
between the U.S. and the U.K. We have 115 volts
and 60 cycles and they have 240 volts and 50
cycles (Hz).
When you check into your hotel, ask about having a
newspaper delivered to your room each morning. At
some hotels there is no charge for this service,
but at other hotels they will bill you for the
paper. The International Herald Tribune is
printed by the New York Times and has good U.S.
news coverage, however the paper is not available
at all hotels in the Winchester area. Popular
English newspapers would be the London Times, The
Financial Times and The Telegraph, or you could
try the tabloids such as the Mirror, Express and
so on.
Just a word on telephones. Hotel telephone operators will assist you in placing long distance
calls and making credit card calls. They may not
be readily available during the night however
while it's early evening in the U.S. If you have
an AT&T telephone charge card, you can call their
USA Direct line unassisted. This also saves money
on the cost of the call.
Another comment I should make about telephones is
that the first time visitor may have difficulty
initially dealing with the U.K. equivalent of U.S.
Area Codes. There are different codes for local
and long distance dialing within the U.K.. Don't
hesitate to ask for assistance when placing your
call.
So much for hotels and such. Should you find
yourself at still another place, enjoy, and to
borrow from Agatha Christie "Come, Tell Me How You
Live".
[Return to Table of Contents] In this chapter I would like to talk about some
sightseeing you might do on the very first day you
arrive in England. I'm going to assume you're not
going to spend your first few days in London, but
you will be going to your hotel in the Winchester
area soon after your arrival.
As I said earlier, my strategy to get adjusted to
the six hour time zone difference between Texas
and England is 1) get at least three hours of
(some kind of) sleep on the overnight plane ride,
and 2) force myself to stay awake all day, the
first day in England.
What I would suggest is that you give some thought
to sights you might like to see enroute from
London's Gatwick (or Heathrow) airport to the
Winchester area. If you reserve a rental car at
the airport for your arrival, then after you
collect your baggage and clear customs, you could
be on your way for a good six hours or so of
touring, eventual winding up at your hotel in the
Winchester area.
From the London airports, you could drive east in
the direction of Canterbury or Dover, loop to the
south and back to the west, maybe following the
coastline, through Brighton, onto Southampton, and
eventually Winchester.
Instead of going completely east, you may wish to
'drift' through Kent, visiting the castles at
Leeds, Bodiam, and Herstmonceaux. From there you
can start west on the A27 or M27 for your trip to
Winchester.
Or you could start with a tour of the town of
Windsor and its famous castle, then on Oxford or
Reading, possibly going off to Hungerford, and
finally down to Winchester.
If you choose not to swing east before going to
the west, you could drop south from Gatwick on the
A23, and plan for any one of several excursions
off the A27 enroute to Winchester. My favorites
would be the castle at Arundel, the Roman ruins at
Fishbourne just west of Chichester. And you might
try to fit in Portchester castle before calling it
a day.
Portsmouth is on the south coast, 10-15 miles east
and south of Southampton, but there is so much to
see there, I wouldn't suggest you try to see it
'along the way' from the airport.
Once you get settled in the Winchester area and
you're interested in some all day touring for Saturday and Sunday, we'll include a description of
what there is to see and do in Portsmouth. But
there are so many choices for weekend touring,
that it's not the shortage of ideas, but the
problem that you can't do it all in one weekend.
More on this later. First, let's talk about some
initial sightseeing, enroute from the airport to
your hotel, on your first day in England.
[Return to Table of Contents] You may decide to head east and see the 'white
cliffs of Dover'. If you choose this direction
for your sightseeing, you'll probably include
Canterbury and its Cathedral along the way. The
Archbishop of Canterbury does his best to keep the
the cathedral in good repair for the thousands of
visitors who come yearly.
I'll talk later about other cathedrals such as
Winchester and Salisbury, Ely or Coventry,
Westminster Abbey and St. Pauls. Each of them
have some noteworthy characteristic. I think
Canterbury Cathedral is worth seeing, but if
you're like me, you'll come to like other
cathedrals for whatever unique charm or aspect
they might have.
The cliffs of Dover have been the subject of books
and films, and many people will at least recognize
the name. Dover has been a major port of entry
for passenger ferries between England and the
European continent, so be prepared for informational signs and lots of traffic in the port area.
As far as the cliffs, hope the weather is in your
favor, because on an overcast day the cliffs have
little natural color to highlight them. But on a
sunny day, you should find a photo opportunity or
two in the area. You can imagine why the sight of
large amount of chalky white hills might be an
image many people remember as they leave or arrive
in England by boat at this port.
Near Dover are some sights you may consider
working into your itinerary. There is an exhibition showing the progress of the 'Chunnel'
(Channel Tunnel) being constructed to connect
England to the European continent.
The Earl of Sandwich supposedly has given us the
beginnings of a long family of luncheon delights.
I made a visit to the village of Sandwich, and of
all things, I had chili for lunch that day.
Deal is nearby and it has a castle you might wish
to see. For that matter, Dover has its castle as
well and it would be of interest to World War II
buffs. But if you want to limit your castle
touring, the best of breed (I think) will be
Windsor, Warwick and Arundel. More about each of
them later.
After touring the 'far east' of southeast England,
you'll want to head west for your journey to
Winchester. If you travel south coast route, I
would suggest passing through Rye on the A259. I
enjoy it for its shops, crafts and an air that
seems to cater to the public and the traveller.
From Rye, you would pass through Hastings, enroute
to Brighton and the west. If you didn't jaunt off
to Canterbury and Dover, you might have taken the
Leeds, Bodiam route I suggested earlier. Leaving
Gatwick, you would first go north on the M23, and
then east on the M25/M26/M20 to get past Maidstone
to Leeds.
Leeds Castle is one the most frequently photographed castles in England. You'll recognize it
I'm sure, when you see the castle sitting on its
island, surrounded by huge parkland.
Leaving Leeds on the B2163, you want to pick up
the A229 headed south to Hawkhurst and four more
miles to Bodiam. The castle at Bodiam is grand
with its moat and high stone walls. The shame is
that the interior of the castle is all gone
however. Still, the castle is one of my favorites.
During a visit to Honolulu and the Iolani Palace,
I noticed a picture on King Kalakaua's library
wall. The king was was a worldly king and had
quite an interest in England. The picture which
caught my eye was of Bodiam Castle. Small world.
Travelling south to Hastings, and then ten miles
to the west is Pevensey. Some old castle ruins
are located here, in this town on the English
Channel. About 5-7 miles north of Pevensey is
Herstmonceaux. You can tour the castle grounds
here, but not the interior of this well preserved
structure. At this site, is the old Royal (Naval)
Observatory
Now headed west, you'll pass through Brighton.
Brighton is a large, bustling town, and even
busier in the summer months because people flock
to the English Channel on their holiday (vacation). You might consider visiting the Royal
Pavilion which is a most unusual structure, patterned clearly after the palaces of India.
[Return to Table of Contents] If you had left Gatwick and come directly south to
Brighton, and now are headed west to Winchester,
you probably have the energies to stop in Arundel.
Town centre is quaint, and the park is delightful
for a stroll or maybe a game of lawn bowling.
But the sight to see is Arundel Castle. Depending
on the time of year, and the time and day of your
arrival, the castle may not be open. Do check and
try to see the inside grounds and the interior of
the castle. You won't be disappointed.
At Arundel, I not only enjoy a walking tour of the
castle interior, but I thoroughly enjoy a climb to
the castle keep, and a look at the dungeon. Lots
of photographic opportunities here.
Brighton to Arundel is about 20 miles, and in
another 10 miles you'll be at Chichester.
Chichester has its cathedral, numerous small shops
and a good theatre. Just west of Chichester is
Fishbourne and the Roman ruins. If you enjoy
archeology, you'll enjoy seeing what's been
unearthed here. And the way it's presented to the
tourist I think is neat. There are walkways
directly over the digs, where you can look down on
the subject matter.
It's now about 20 miles from Fishbourne to
Portchester, but here's a quick bit of touring.
Portchester castle is mostly the castle walls, but
I think it's worth the half hour you might spend
there. The structure is vastly different than say
Bodiam, and the keep doesn't compare to Arundel,
but I still look forward to climbing to the top of
the keep every time I visit Portchester. You'll
get a good panoramic view of Portsmouth Harbour.
Having come the southern route and visited one or
several of the places I've mentioned thus far, I
would guess you'll be bushed. So, at this point,
why not call it a day (for touring) and move on to
your hotel. Get unpacked, have some dinner, and
before you know it, it will be 9:00PM and time for
a good nine hour sleep to put you in shape for
your first real day in England.
[Return to Table of Contents] If you did not choose the southern route, perhaps
you were interested in a trip more west and then
south to Winchester. If so, you would leave
Gatwick and head north on the M23, connect to the
M25 and use this 'orbital' (beltway) to circumvent
greater London on its southwest side. The M25 is
a very busy motorway, so be prepared for traffic.
Just west of London, you would exit the M25 and
take the M4 for a short distance to Windsor.
Follow the signs, it's easy. Lots of car parks,
and walking is easy. The town thrives on tourists, so you'll find lots of shops, pubs and restaurants.
The main attraction, of course, is Windsor Castle.
You can tour the State Apartments (if the Queen is
not in residence), Queen Mary's Dolls' House, or
any of several other buildings. The grounds are
extensive and worth the visit. If you're timing
is right (11:00AM), you can see a changing of the
guard here, but not on the same grand scale as
with Buckingham Palace in London.
After Windsor, you should decide on a route to
Winchester. You could head a bit north to Oxford
and then come back down through Reading and onto
Winchester. Oxford is home for the many colleges
which make up the famous university. Depending on
your interest, you may wish to tour some of the
open campuses which are accessible. Check with
the local Tourist Information Centre for specific
openings.
There are excellent bookshops in Oxford, such as
Blackwell's and Dillons. You can get an unequaled
view of the spires of Oxford churches and colleges
from the roof of the Sheldonian Theatre.
If not Oxford, you might be interested in the home
of the first Duke of Wellington. This estate is
located about ten miles south of Reading, just
west of the A33 in Stratfield Saye. Most notable
here is the huge (and I mean huge) funeral hearse
used to transport the Duke after his death.
A tour of Windsor Castle and grounds, and the town
of Windsor, will probably consume the better part
of your day, so I wouldn't try to pack too much
more into an arrival day. Maybe a trip through
Oxford or the stop in Stratfield Saye, but after
that I would head to your hotel in Winchester, get
unpacked, maybe shower, have a good evening meal
and collapse for a good night's rest.
[Return to Table of Contents] If you're going to visit England, I have to assume
you're going to spend some time seeing London.
Everybody does it, as they say. You might consider spending some time in the city before or
after a business trip and as such you'll probably
stay in a hotel in town.
If you're going to 'do London' at the start of
your trip, I assume you'll take the train in from
the airport. There are other ways of getting into
the city, but the train is convenient and economical. From the train station, you probably will
take a taxi and go directly to your hotel.
London hotels vary quite a bit on cost. You may
have gotten a good deal from your travel agent, or
you may be staying in London as part of a business
trip and staying at some company recommended
hotel, where room cost is not so much a personal
concern. As you can imagine, the comfort and
location of a given hotel is probably reflected by
the rate it charges. Supply and demand, to borrow
a phrase.
There are some ways to keep expenses down, if your
stay is a personal one. England is famous for bed
and breakfast but you won't find that in the
centre of London. You may get some leads for B&B
on the outskirts of London, where you might use
the train to get into the city for sightseeing.
Or you may inquire about garden apartments or
terrace houses, which usually rent by the week or
more. Some of these can be quite nice, and would
have some housekeeping done for you, but basically
it's like having an apartment for the week. The
places that might be close into the centre of town
will obviously go for a higher rate. If you find
a place away from town centre, again try to get
close to one of the train (underground) stations,
which you would use to get in and around London.
If you're going to be visiting IBM at Hursley for
two weeks or more, you might plan on spending some
weekend day in London. Before I elaborate on
that, I should say that some Hursley visitors have
stayed in London so as to enjoy the night life,
and would commute by British Rail to and from
Winchester. The train between London and
Winchester runs just about hourly and takes one
hour one way. Add to that a fairly short taxi
ride on the Winchester/Hursley end, and probably a
taxi or underground train on the London end,
you're probably talking about a 90 minute commute,
each way.
One friend of mine stayed in London and commuted
to the Hursley Lab each day, so that he could
attend some event each night while in London. He
took in numerous theatre plays and musicals, the
opera, symphony, ballet, and I don't know what
else. He filled both his days and his nights.
But most visitors to Hursley will stay in the
Winchester area, and most will at least visit
London once. A typical one day visit might be to
come into London on a Saturday, where you can do a
bit of shopping during the day, a bit of
sightseeing, and maybe dinner and a theatre that
night before returning to Winchester. Not all
shops are open on weekends, so if you had something special in mind, you might ask the locals
for help in calling the shop or shops you're
interested in.
A one day trip into London on Sunday is certainly
a possibility, but your plan for the day might be
a bit different. Many shops are closed on Sunday,
so you probably won't do as much shopping.
Souvenir-type shops are probably going to be open,
so you'll have that opportunity, even on Sunday.
A Sunday visit will probably turn out to be mostly
a sightseeing kind of day.
A bit of caution on sightseeing. If possible, get
a book on London beforehand. There are many possibilities. A favorite of mine is the little
pocket version of a Visitor's London Atlas and
Guide, published by Geographer's A-Z Map Co. Ltd.
It sells for under two pounds, is handy for pocket
or purse, contains maps of the city, train routes,
and a good condensed listing of places to visit,
the opening times, etc. My point is, don't assume
that everything you might want to see is open all
day, every day. The best advice I can give is for
you to have a plan beforehand. Otherwise, your
day will just sort of happen, and maybe you won't
enjoy as much of London as you could otherwise.
[Return to Table of Contents] Taking the train into London for just one day has
a price break. When you buy your ticket, make
sure you specify same day return because the
ticket is cheaper. And while you're at it, you
may as well pay the extra charge and get a one day
pass (referred to as a Capital Card) for use of
all trains and busses while in the city.
You may think that you'll walk around mostly, but
when you find out how big London is and how far
apart the attractions are that you want to see,
you'll find yourself taking the train or underground. Ah, how your feet will enjoy the ride.
And by the way, be sure to look both ways when
crossing the street. Americans always look the
wrong way for oncoming traffic.
The trains between London and Winchester (or
Eastleigh or Southampton, wherever you're staying)
have mostly non-smoking passenger cars. If you're
a smoker, don't hesitate to ask which car is designated as the smoker. The smoker might be the
club car.
When travelling by train, you'll purchase your
ticket at the train station, show the ticket to
any conductor as you board or that asks to see
your ticket. When you reach your destination, you
again show your ticket as you exit the track area.
If you purchase a one day bus and underground
ticket, most underground stations have automated
ticket turnstiles, where you feed your ticket to
operate the gate, it unlocks the gate and ejects
your ticket. Most underground stations are busy
with frequent travellers so be prepared to move
briskly through the queues and turnstiles.
Taking the train from Winchester to London, you
should allow enough time to get to the station,
buy your ticket and locate the correct track for
your train. If you were staying in Winchester at
the Crest, Royal or Moat House, you could walk to
the train station in about 15 minutes. If you are
driving to the station, there is a car park on
both sides of the station, but do give yourself
time to locate the car park, purchase a parking
sticker, and walk the short distance to the
station to buy your ticket, etc.
The train from Winchester to London will bring you
into Waterloo Station. To give you a mental map
or picture of the city, imagine a wiggley line
from left to right, where this line is the River
Thames (tems). Waterloo is on the south side of
the river (South Bank), and most of what you probably want to see is on the north side of the
river.
On arrival at Waterloo, you could walk from the
station into the centre of town, but it's a long,
rather uneventful walk. If you didn't have a map
beforehand, stop into one of the bookstalls at
Waterloo and purchase one. You'll want a good
street map and a map of the underground. By the
way, don't call the underground a subway. A
subway is an underground pedestrian walkway. 'The'
underground is the train, sometimes called the
tube.
Unless you want to see the Thames or Westminster
Bridge quickly, you'll probably take the tube to
whatever you choose as your first destination. A
brief study of the underground map will show you
that there are multiple 'lines'. You may have to
take one line's train to some stop where you can
change to another line and train, and then continue onward to your destination.
If your first destination was to be the famous
Harrod's department store for a bit of shopping,
you would take the Northern line from Waterloo,
change at the Embankment, and take the District
line to South Kensington. Harrod's is on Brompton
Road. Happy shopping. Be sure to visit the fabulous Food Hall.
Or if your first stop is the Tower of London (an
old fort, really), I would take the Northern line
to the Embankment, change to the District line,
but go in the opposite direction (east) to Tower
Hill. There's lots to see at the Tower, so like a
shopping trip at Harrod's leave ample time to
enjoy yourself. My favorite at the Tower is the
Jewel House (Waterloo Block) and the White Tower.
The royal jewels are almost beyond imagination,
and the displays of armor in the White Tower are
most impressive.
Near the Tower of London is Tower Bridge, which
many people mistakenly called London Bridge.
London Bridge, whether the old one (presently in
Arizona) or the new one, both are very plain and
hardly noteworthy.
[Return to Table of Contents] Let me list some of the more popular attractions
that you might visit on a one day trip into
London. Whether you walk, take a taxi or the
underground, is up to you. I'll suggest the
places. You draw up your plan.
If you take an 8:00AM train from Winchester
(usually 8:04), you're an early bird. You'll be
into London by 9:00AM and can be on your way to
see the sights. On Saturday, most stores would be
opening around 9:00, 9:30 or 10:00, so you'll be
on time in that respect.
If you're off to see an attraction, that varies as
to opening times, so do check your guide book,
that I know you will have bought by this time.
If you took the 9:00AM train from Winchester, you
probably slept in a bit, had breakfast, and
figured London could wait just a bit longer. Well,
now it's 10:00AM when you reach town, and at least
10:30 by the time you're at your first destination.
If the day and weather are correct, many first
time visitors like to head for Buckingham Palace
to watch the changing of the guard. If the
weather is rainy, few people like to stand out in
the rain to watch a ceremony and parade. If it's
winter, the changing of the guard is every other
day, so check your calendar and guide book.
You may see the Horse Guard parade up and down The
Mall, or the Foot Guard and marching band put on a
grand show in front of the palace. The ceremony
is at 11:30AM but because of the large number of
tourist this draws, you have to be there early to
get a decent view of the event.
Some people like the idea of 'calling on the
Queen', as long as they're in the neighborhood of
Buckingham Palace. If you're so inclined, you can
go round to the back of the Palace (to the left,
facing the Palace) and sign the book, indicating
you were there. (Sorry, the Queen is busy most
days, but she sends her regards).
After watching the Changing of the Guard, you may
wish to head in the direction of Westminster
Abbey, Parliament and Big Ben. Viewing the inside
of the Abbey is interesting, but for a different
experience, try rubbing some brass plates. This
is done in an area along side the Abbey called the
Cloisters. Just follow the signs.
For a modest price, you'll receive materials and a
brief instruction as to how to rub the brass
carving of your choice, and create a drawing of
your own. Rubbing is like covering a coin with
paper and rubbing a pencil back and forth to get
an image onto the paper. Except in the case of
the Abbey, you'll be rubbing artistic reproductions of brass plates, usually used to mark the
grave of some notable figure.
Big Ben and Parliament are simply a must for the
photographer. From here, one choice you have is
to walk down Whitehall, past a number of major
government buildings, and notable places such as
Downing Street, home of the Prime Minister. Continue walking and you'll see the Admiralty Arch,
Trafalgar Square, and other photogenic landmarks.
At Trafalgar Square, you'll see Lord Nelson's
Column (statue), and nearby is the National Portrait Gallery. If you're into art, this is a neat
place to visit.
Had you started your day at Harrod's, you might
lunch at one of the several fine restaurants in
the store, or the nice places along Basil Street,
'behind' the store. After you have refreshed
yourself, if you're ready for a bit of touring,
you have several good choices directly across and
down the street a short way.
The Victoria and Albert Museum of fine art is
close at hand. If you enjoy Geology or Natural
History, those museums are on Cromwell Road, just
beyond the V&A. But my favorite is the Science
Museum. They have five or six floors of really
neat stuff. One floor might be devoted to transportation, with ships and trains and things.
Another floor is devoted to space. Another floor
has aviation, and real aircraft on display.
But if you don't mind a busman's holiday, checkout
the floor with data processing and computers on
display. One thing you may notice is that there
is virtually no U.S. manufacturer's or vendors in
evidence. Very much a British and European
flavor. But the place is a treat in any case,
and you may find some good prices on the souvenirs
in the museum store as you leave.
You should try to fit in a walk or a bus ride down
Piccadilly. In the evening, you may very well
attend the theatre, so it might be interesting to
see Shaftsbury Avenue, Charing Cross Road or St.
Martins Lane in both the daylight as well as the
glitter of the marquees at night.
Covent Garden has a history of its own, but today
it is mostly boutiques and speciality shops, and
the tourists seem to love it. It's not too close,
but the hearty can walk to it and the less active
can hail a taxi. There are street minstrels to
entertain you, so leave a few shillings to show
you enjoyed their presentation. I like the arts
and crafts area because you can pick up some
really interesting pieces. There are plenty of
pubs in the immediate area for food and drink.
You should also try to fit in a visit to St.
Paul's Cathedral. If you are able to visit during
the week, you can be permitted to climb to the top
of the dome for a gorgeous view of the city
skyline. Remember to pack lots of film. St.
Paul's is where Prince Charles and Lady Diana were
married.
And from St. Paul's, you're not far from the
Museum of London. Or if you want something more
substantial, and with more of a history in its own
right, you shouldn't miss the British Museum. One
of the problems with the British Museum is that it
is much too big. Unless you devote several days
or the better part of one day, my advice for
seeing this museum is to pick out one or two
exhibits that really interest you, and save the
rest for another time. The featured exhibits that
the museum conducts are almost always excellent
and of general interest. Personal favorites have
been exhibits on very old clocks, or coins.
There's much more to London, but to talk about it
would be the beginnings of another London guide
book. If the names 'ring a bell' with you,
perhaps you should consider putting them on your
itinerary; Piccadilly Circus, Oxford Street,
Mayfair, Marble Arch, Hyde Park, St. James Park,
the Strand, and so on.
Make sure you take at least one ride in a London
taxi. The drivers know the city quite well, and
will navigate while you enjoy the ride. A ride on
a double-decker bus is something to write home
about. There are even bus tours that will show
you major sights of the city if you'd like that
sort of thing.
I enjoy British theatre. Mostly plays, but the
musicals are good as well. Many of the theatres
have a history of their own, going back quite a
ways. Tickets are easy to come by for many plays
and musicals, so don't hesitate to stop into one
of the many box offices located in central London.
If you're staying at a London hotel, the front
desk probably has someone that will obtain tickets
for you. Among the reasons I enjoy British
theatre is that the auditoriums are small enough
where everyone is close to the presentation.
After a full day of touring, shopping, walking,
riding, eating, and watching, you'll be ready for
the train ride back to Winchester. Do check for
so-called fast and slow trains. Last train from
London leaves just before midnight, so don't stay
out too late. And on the train ride back, don't
doze off or you'll wake up in Bournemouth.
[Return to Table of Contents] If you're going to arrive in the Winchester area
early or stay on after your business is attended
to, you should plan to see the sights in and
around the city. If you're going to be in town
for a couple of weeks, you would have at least
Saturday or Sunday to spend in and about the town.
If you don't come early and you're going to leave
right after you attend to business, about you're
only chance to see the city is maybe some afternoon if your business day runs a bit short.
If you expect to do any shopping in Winchester, be
aware that most shops are open from say 9:30AM to
5:30PM, and not at all on Sunday. If you have a
long lunch while at Hursley, and you have a car,
you could drive into town in about 15 minutes,
have an hour for shopping, and another 15 minutes
to get back to the Lab. I don't know what you'll
do for something to eat, but I leave that to you
to figure out.
If you want more extensive shopping in the
Winchester area, you might consider a short trip
to Southampton. In the so-called 'Above Bar' area
in town centre are many shops and some major
department stores.
Some of the sights to see are open on Sunday,
during typical English open times from say 1:00PM
to 5:00PM. You might check open times for any
attractions you might want to see beforehand. And
once you know what those hours are, you could plan
to see other sights which do not have hours per
se. For instance, you could go to the top of St.
Giles for a panoramic view during a morning, do a
bit of walking along the River Itchen, and then be
able to see the Great Hall in the afternoon when
it's open.
If you're staying at one of the Winchester hotels,
you can walk directly to the sights you want to
see. If you're staying elsewhere and you drive
into town, for shopping, dining or sightseeing, I
would suggest you park your car at the city car
park near the Forte Crest Hotel and Winchester
Cathedral.
The Crest is off Broadway, just past the
Guildhall, and before you would otherwise go up
High Street. The little street you would turn
left onto is Colebrook. Once you see the Crest, it
will be easy to then spot the car park right next
to the city offices. During the day, 8:00AM to
6:00PM, you'll have to pay to park. Have correct
change for the ticket meter.
The obvious sights to see in Winchester are things
like Winchester Cathedral, Wolvesey Castle and
Palace, King Alfred's Statue, the Abbey Gardens,
the River Itchen walkway, St. Giles hill, the High
Street pedestrian walking mall, Westgate and
Westgate Museum, the Great Hall, Winchester
Museum, and more. The Great Hall is a remaining
portion of the original Winchester Palace or
Castle.
There are some other sights to see, probably as
part of walking tour. For instance, King's Gate
that separates the Cathedral Close from College
Street and Winchester College. Just down
Kingsgate Street is Jane Austen's house. She is
buried (entombed) in Winchester Cathedral, by the
way.
If you're interested in the military, you might
plan to visit the Hampshire Regimental Museum or
the Royal Hussars Museum located just off
Southgate Street. Up the High Street, past the
Westgate on onto Romsey Road you'll find the Green
Jacket's Museum.
So, let me tell you a bit more about some of
these, and then you can decide what you might like
to include in your 'local tour'. Depending on
your interest, you might wish to spend several
days in and around the city. Or if you have a
spouse along on your trip, he/she might see more
of the local attractions than you. You'll get an
impression from your spouse, and you can compare
that to my description.
[Return to Table of Contents] The Winchester Cathedral is a must. You can pick
up a brochure while in the cathedral, and you'll
have all the facts you want about the great old
church. The cathedral is now over 900 years old,
and maybe showing its age here and there. It
seems to me (a visitor for many years) that there
is always scaffolding around the building where
somebody is repairing or restoring something.
At one time Winchester was the capital of England,
by the way, so that gives some idea why a major
structure such as this was built in the middle
south of England. As you can see, the cathedral
is sinking into some very soft ground. You can
ask about William Walker, the famous 'diver' who
went underwater in the crypts beneath the
cathedral to shore up the building and prevent its
further sinking into the soft ground.
Winchester Cathedral has the distinction of having
the longest nave of all cathedrals in England.
The nave is the view you have from the very front
door of the cathedral to the extreme other end of
the building. There is not much of a spire on the
cathedral, but then that distinction belongs to
Salisbury Cathedral, and we'll talk about that
elsewhere.
As you tour the interior of the cathedral, you
can't help but notice the association of the
church and the military. There are all kinds of
commemoratives to the military and their service
to God and country. Many church officials are
entombed here, either in above ground tombs or
beneath the church floor. As mentioned, Jane
Austen, the noted writer is also buried here.
If you're staying at the Crest, you may hear the
choir practicing or singing at vespers on a Wednesday night. The church bells will ring in the
early morning and in the evening. Some people
enjoy the bells, and others may wish a bit more
quiet.
The front doors of the cathedral face the west, so
walking to the south side of the building will
take you to the Deanery grounds, and to Kings
Gate. I should point out, that just down
Kingsgate Street is one of the finer pubs (and
small hotel) known as Wykeham Arms. I have not
stayed there, but I have eaten there and the food
is excellent. Get there early, before they run
out of the evenings menu. If you consider staying
at the hotel, you'll have to decide on where to
park your car, because the streets in this part of
town are very, very narrow.
Once through Kingsgate, you might stroll down
College Street, poke your head into the college (I
don't think the hall porter will keep you out),
and continue on down to Wolvesey Palace and
Castle. Not much remains of either Wolvesey, but
history is history, and you may wish to tour this
local site.
[Return to Table of Contents] Around the Close Wall and Castle Wall will take
you to the River Itchen. If you're there in
spring or summer, you should really enjoy the walk
along the river. The ducks, the flowers, the
rapidly moving river, are all things to be
enjoyed. And make sure you have your camera with
you.
The river walk will deposit you at Bridge Street.
You can go across and into the old City Mill
House. From here, you could walk up Bridge Street
and follow the signs to St. Giles hill. This park
area is also referred to as The Soke. I'm told
that a soke is an Anglo-Saxon term for a piece of
land under jurisdiction of a local authority (i.e.
Bishop of Winchester). The view from St. Giles
will be your best high vista or vantage point.
There is a sign at the park to help you understand
the sights you'll be seeing. And on a clear day,
this is a great photo taking spot.
Back down the hill, past King Alfred's statue, and
a walk up the Broadway would take you to High
Street. During the shopping day, you'll find lots
of opportunities to spend money along the High
Street. Make sure you wander off to either side
of High Street. St. Georges is to the north, paralleling High Street. The post office and a neat
small shopping centre are located at St. Georges
and Brook Street.
To the south of High Street is Market Street and
Minster Street. Lots of neat shops. One just off
the Market Cross (or Buttercross) is a store with
inexpensive little toys and kitchen knick-knacks.
On the corner of the Cathedral property at Minster
Street is the City of Winchester Museum. Small,
but worth seeing. And if you have the time,
strike up a conversation with one of the attendants. They seem to love their work.
Also in this neighborhood is the Eclipse pub, just
across from the Winchester Museum. Here you can
strike up another kind of conversation with the
pub crowd. Just ask to hear about William Walker,
the diver who saved the Cathedral. You'll be
there for a pint or two.
Walking to the west, up the High Street, you can
turn south onto Southgate and visit the military
museums (Hampshire Regiment or Royal Hussars),
assuming they're open. Or you can walk past the
horse and rider statue in the direction of
Westgate and the Westgate Museum. Here also is a
small museum, upstairs above the Westgate, but
worth the few pence it will cost you to get in.
Be sure to ask about the wrought iron cages that
people were 'hung' in as a form of punishment.
Those were the days.
At the top of High Street is a cluster of civic
buildings (courts mostly), and these are on the
grounds of the once proud Winchester Palace or
Castle. Some remains of the old city wall and
foundation of the Palace have been excavated for
public view. This can be seen as you walk towards
the Great Hall.
In the Great Hall you will see the famous King
Arthur's Round Table. An IBMer once remarked that
this was probably the first Quality Circle. You
shouldn't have to think about that very long. The
table is mounted high on the hall wall and
brightly illuminated. You can try your hand at
indoor photography, or simply purchase some slides
at the souvenir desk.
At this point, I probably have told you more than
you wanted to know about local Winchester sights.
There's much more to be said, but maybe I should
leave that to you to discover. You may wish to
follow the North Walls which once enclosed the
city. Or see the Godbegot House on High Street,
one of the best preserved buildings in town.
Between High Street and St. George Street, opposite St. Peter's Street, is a narrow alleyway.
Here you'll find the Royal Oak pub, reputedly the
oldest pub in all of England. If you're not busy
on a Thursday night, stop in to hear the music and
have a beverage or two.
There are many, many restaurants in Winchester and
I'll devote another section of this writing to
that subject. I won't mention McDonald's and the
other fast food along the High Street, but steer
you to some really good dining throughout the
city.
[Return to Table of Contents] During and after World War II, England (perhaps
deservedly) got a bad name as far as restaurants
and eating out. Well, that has changed, and you
should find plenty to enjoy by eating out in the
Winchester area. And the fare will not be just
'meat and potatoes', but just about anything you
fancy.
Finding a good place to eat each night will not be
your problem. Your problem will be that you probably aren't staying in the country long enough to
savor all the good places (and plates) that there
are. You'll just have to come back again soon.
But while you're in the area, let's consider some
of the more frequently referenced restaurants.
Or, let me put that another way. Let me tell you
about places where I have eaten, enjoyed it, and
why I enjoyed it. Food can often be a personal
like and dislike, so I'll have to qualify it by
saying, I have enjoyed these places, and would
hope you would too.
I'm going to talk about a dozen or so places, and
maybe mention a few more in passing. Most of
these restaurants have been in existence for a
while, but do realize things change, and what I
may write about today, may be gone tomorrow. Keep
an open mind, and when in doubt, ask. Your
English hosts are bound to have a suggestion or
two of their own. I didn't find all my favorites
by myself, but in fact I did get recommendations
for quite a few places from 'the locals'.
If I were to visit the Winchester area for just a
short time, the restaurants I would be sure to go
to would be Keats, on the Romsey Road, about two
miles south of Hursley, in Ampfield, and Armando's
Pizza Pan, on Bedford Place, in Southampton.
Daverio, and his very competent staff, will host
you at Keats, and make sure you have a most enjoyable meal, and pleasant surroundings.
You can get a pizza at Armando's but the Italian
waiters in their white shirts, and aprons over
black trousers, and their towel draped over their
arm, will offer you many suggestions from seafood
to pasta. Enjoy, have some wine, and maybe an
espresso afterward.
For a visit of two weeks, I probably would give
repeat business to both Keats and Armandos. But
to round out my tour of the area, I probably would
select from the following list.
[Return to Table of Contents] Ghandi's in Winchester, across from the Guildhall,
has as good an Indian menu as you're going to
find. I doubly enjoy Ghandi's because I reminisce
about the old days, when the Europa Restaurant
operated out of the same building. More on this
later.
Mr. So's is fairly new in Winchester. It's on
Jewry Street, where you'll find a number of good
and varied restaurants. Mr. So's is excellent
Chinese food. A few doors down, you could pop
into an up-tempo place called Muswell's, which
caters to a younger crowd and a more casual eating
atmosphere.
The Wykeham Arms, on Kingsgate Street, just south
the Winchester Cathedral property, has excellent
pub food right in town. And by pub food, I don't
mean junk food. I'm talking substance. My only
caution is to suggest you eat early because when
they run out of tonight's offerings, they're out.
Around and near King Alfred's statue, on the
Broadway in Winchester, are a number of restaurants, none of them particularly large. And while
I can name a few just now, be prepared that there
is turnover in the restaurant business and what
may be here today can be gone tomorrow.
If you walk east from the statue, over the River
Itchen bridge, you'll find the Mill House restaurant which can serve a good meal. The Chesil
Rectory is an old building, just at the roundabout
where Bridge Street intersects with Chesil Street.
The Tudor-like building is fascinating, and the
atmosphere of the restaurant is usually enjoyed by
all. The problem has been high turnover of
owner/operators.
On Minster Street, which fronts Winchester
Cathedral you'll find Brann's. Excellent food at
a fixed price, but I have to warn you, its a
higher price than most places in the area. If the
weather is nice, you might try to get a table
upstairs at the front so the you can look out the
windows onto the cathedral green.
[Return to Table of Contents] I hope you have a car or that you're with someone
that has a car, because then you'll have the
option and freedom to 'venture out' and not only
see the area, but try some varied food. In no
particular order, let me tell you about some
favorite places outside Winchester.
Otterbourne is basically south of Winchester. You
can take the Winchester Bypass (A33) for a short
distance, and exit at the Otterbourne sign. Or
you can drive south on Southgate Street which
turns into Saint Cross, and it turns into
Winchester Road as it enters Otterbourne.
There are two restaurants that I would suggest.
The Old Forge is located in an old building which
reputedly housed a forge at one time. I think
you'll enjoy the warm, close setting, and probably
the best beef in the area.
A bit further down the Winchester Road, as it
nears Chandlers Ford, as you're headed south, look
to the right and you should spot the King's Court.
An extensive menu, high quality, red velvet
setting, and lots to enjoy. This is an excellent
restaurant for both beef and fish.
If you were staying at the Potters Heron, just a
mile south of the Hursley, I would suggest you eat
there at least one evening. Ordinarily, when I'm
in the area, I try to eat out most evenings, but
if I'm running late, or I'm tired and don't want
to drive somewhere, I'll 'eat in'. The Potters
has both its formal dining room and a more casual
restaurant which is in the pub. Good food in both
cases.
Keats Restaurant is on the Romsey Road, about one
mile south of the Potters Heron. And a bit
further south, before getting to Romsey, you
should see the Mandarin Chef on your left. Not
Chinese, but different enough to eat Chinese one
night and Mandarin another night.
In Romsey, there are several places to try. If
it's Chinese you want, try the South Garden on
Bell Street, near the town centre roundabout. On
the same street is the Angel Hotel, a new Thai
restaurant, and an excellent Indian Tandori restaurant. I recommend them all. The Dolphin is an
upstairs restaurant in town centre, a few doors
down from the news market.
A fine restaurant in Romsey is the Old Manor
House. If you like food prepared in the Continental or French style, this place should please
you. The odd thing about the Manor House is that
the building is clearly Tudor and English-like.
Also, be prepared for a relatively higher bill
when you have your coffee.
[Return to Table of Contents] If you really want novelty, and you have the time
and patience, let me suggest something like a road
rally. What I mean is, your first task is to find
the place and that's like a road rally. Then you
can enjoy the Fox and Hounds in Hungerford Bottom,
and the Jolly Sailor in Bursledon. Both are
old,historically significant kinds of places and I
think you'll enjoy the 'outing'.
To get to the 'neighborhood', you have to drive
south to Southampton, and take the M27 or A27
(basically) east as though you were going to
Portsmouth. At Junction 8, exit as though you were
going to Hamble (which you might later). Now, pay
attention. At the Windhover roundabout, take the
B3397 a short distance, turning left onto the
Lowford Hill and Portsmouth Road. Headed east
then, look for School Road, turn right, head
south, at the fork, bear right, and watch for
signs for the Fox and Hounds. It's a pub with
good food and a farm like atmosphere (plowshares
and such).
As you leave the Fox and Hounds, why not stop into
the Jolly Sailor and have a round before you head
back to your hotel. From F&H, go south on Kew
Lane, then east on High Street, and finally turn
right and south on Lands End Road. Have the 'best
driver' handle this bit, because Lands End Road is
a bit narrow. Walk down the steep hill to the
Jolly Sailor and a delightful night time view of
the River Hamble.
On another day, or night, you may wish to venture
further down the B3397 into the town of Hamble.
The Bugle has been a long time restaurant in town,
although different management has offered different levels of fare. If you're a sailor, or
even not, many would enjoy seeing the sailboats
glide by on the river or just resting at their
mooring.
Back over in Southampton, I should mention the
Carvery at the Cowherds. If you drive south from
Winchester to Southampton, you'll come into the
city on the A33. Look for the sports centre and
wide open park area to your right, and there you
should see a large pub-like complex called the
Cowherds. The Carvery is basically a fixed price
menu, offering traditional fare such as roast beef
and Yorkshire pudding. Or have some lamb, or
turkey to go with your veggies.
If you like to drive, and see some sights as part
of your eating adventure, consider driving a bit
west and then south to Lymington. From
Winchester, I would drive south on the A33, west
on the M27 and exit in the Cadnam area, looking
for A337 headed south, through Lyndhurst,
Brockenhurst, and finally to Lymington. When you
get into Lymington, don't take the sharp right
turn to stay on the A337 but instead follow the
signs to the quay (pronounced 'key'). On the quay
(waterfront, wharf, pier) you'll see several pubs,
tackle shops, and a cobblestone street will take
you to the New Flounders.
The New Flounders is primarily seafood, and it is
good. About the only thing I don't like is the
tiny seats they have. My body needs a bigger
seat. But because I like the place, my fanny can
wait for the cushioned car seat.
[Return to Table of Contents] We haven't talked about venturing north from
Winchester, so let's name a few places in that
direction. In Kingsworthy is one of England's
more notable pubs. Some night you might not want
a 'proper' restaurant meal but a more casual
atmosphere might be what you had in mind. The
Carts and Horses is located at the intersection of
A33 and the Kingsworthy/London Road coming out of
Winchester.
The C&H has a refrigerated case of cold foods, a
large menu of hot foods, and upstairs dining room
(if you really did want table and napkins and the
like). And be prepared, no matter what night you
choose to visit, it will be crowded.
Instead of heading due north, as to Kingsworthy,
you might try going a bit to the north, and then
to the west of Winchester. On the A272 headed to
Stockbridge, you might pull off to the right and
follow the signs into the village of Crawley. I
hope you're there on a summer evening so that you
can see the quaint pond, with its ducks, in the
middle of the village. But your dining objective
would be the only pub and restaurant in the
village, the Fox and Hounds. Warm, quaint,
friendly. You'll enjoy it.
Or after leaving Winchester on the A272, you may
wish to pull off to the south onto the Sparsholt
Road, and immediately into the Lainston House.
This is primarily a manor house hotel, but the
dining room is open to the public. The Lainston
House dining room has Continental or French
cuisine and I would describe the setting as a
'proper' meal. If you have not been to the
Lainston House before, just seeing the grounds and
the hotel setting will be an extra treat.
Back on the A272 headed west to Stockbridge, you
could eat at the Grosvenor Hotel, but it would
only be fair by comparison to the Game Larder. The
Game Larder is fairly large, but it's also very
popular so you might call ahead to book a table.
The restaurant is just south of the main street,
about one block from the A3057 roundabout.
A bit further to the west are the Wallops; Over
Wallop, Middle Wallop and Nether Wallop. Three
very quaint villages, complete with babbling
brook, thatched roof cottages, and ducks and
geese. To get to Middle Wallop, take the A272
west out of Stockbridge, north on the B3084 and
right on the A343. Look for the Fifehead Hotel
tucked away on the north side of the highway.
It's small, expensive, and a delight. The fire
will warm you on a cold winter's night and the
country sky will warm you on a summer's eve.
[Return to Table of Contents] There's so much more to eating out in the
Winchester area. I could carry on telling you
about this and that, but I'll leave something for
you to discover. I have only given you the basic
information about some restaurants. You can
assume I have more I could have said about each of
these places.
My two favorites that I mentioned at the onset
bring back all kinds of memories for me. At
Armando's you'll come to enjoy the friendly
waiters and atmosphere, but I think the thing
you'll remember most is the piano player, Dennis.
He can't play well, and he doesn't sing well, but
everyone loves him. And if someone's having a
birthday (or even if they aren't, tell the waiter
they are), you'll have a gay old time when the
pizza pans come crashing down the wooden stairs to
add a bit of noise to your festivities.
Keats is excellent. A lot of Italian dishes but a
bit of variety as well. I think you'll enjoy the
quality of the food, the service, and the atmosphere. Keats is always crowded so that must say
something for it.
And one last bit of story-telling about restaurants in the Winchester area. I continue to visit
Ghandi's in Winchester town centre, which is near
to the bus station, and across from the Guildhall.
I enjoy Indian food, but it's something more personal than that. Before Ghandi's, John Poulter
used to run the Europa ala carte restaurant in
this place.
In early years of visiting England, I came to be
dissatisfied with the lack of variety in the
English breakfast. As long as you enjoy eggs,
eggs, eggs, you'll do nicely with the English idea
of breakfast. But since I frequented the Europa
often enough to come to know John Poulter, I once
complained that what the English needed was a good
pancake (or waffle or French toast).
John greeted me with surprise one evening when it
came time for dessert, because he pasted an addition onto the Europa's sweet menu; the Yelavich
Pancake. Ting, John's wife, created a dessert
which presented a small scoop of ice cream on a
crepe, laced with a berry syrup and garnished with
mandarin oranges and maraschino cherries. At a
one pound ninety-five, it was a bargain and a joy.
But the joke turned on John, because after the
first evening, he forgot to take the pasted-on
addition off his dessert menu, and diners the following day asked "What is the Yelavich Pancake?".
He was obligated to carry on serving the dessert
and it lasted for the next three years that John
had the Europa Restaurant. John had lots of fun
explaining to people what the dessert was.
I should tell you a related story. Some time
later, I was attending a meeting in Los Angeles,
when I met a member of the IBM Hursley Lab, who
was attending the same meeting, and had brought
his wife along for the trip. On meeting, he
introduced me as Bob Yelavich, and before his wife
said anything else, she blurted out, 'Pancakes!'.
You can imagine the laugh we all had. She had
eaten at the Europa and was one of many who heard
the story of the pancake.
I haven't said much about eating out at breakfast
or noontime. I would assume you'll have breakfast
at your hotel, and other than a business lunch,
about the only comment I might make about eating
out at noon, is that England has many, many pubs
which do a good job feeding the luncheon crowd.
In the Winchester area, or more specifically
Hursley, the two spots that I certainly enjoy are
the King's Head and the Dolphin. The King's Head
is larger from a seating capacity and menu point
of view, and I probably would give it the nod for
a bit better quality of food. But the Dolphin is
as nice a pub as you're going to find, and I would
suggest you try it for a lunch as well.
Well, I think that does it for dining recommendations. Do try some places on your own, ask others
for suggestions, and if all else fails, try some
of the restaurants that I have enjoyed. Happy
eating.
[Return to Table of Contents] If you're going to have some time to do a bit of
touring before, during or after your stay in
Winchester, you should have some idea as to what
there is to see, where is it, how long will it
take you to get there, etc. From Winchester,
there are a number of 'day tours' where you could
leave early one morning, do a circular tour of
sorts, and head back to your hotel by nightfall.
For other sights, you might be advised to plan a
weekend, leaving Winchester either on Friday
afternoon/evening, or Saturday morning, and not
returning to your hotel until Sunday night. Some
hotels are very obliging, and if they're not
heavily booked for the weekend, they may allow you
to leave your things in your room over the weekend
at no charge. If that's not possible, they certainly would check your bags that you might not
want to take away on your weekend holiday.
If you do plan a weekend holiday, I would suggest
you use the travel agent at Hursley, or some
other, to help you book hotel rooms for your
Friday and/or Saturday. If you're staying at a
hotel in the Winchester area, which is part of
some chain or franchise, you may ask them to
assist you with hotel bookings for the weekend.
And when you book any hotel room(s) for the
weekend, be aware that many English hotels have
reduced rates, but you have to ask for it.
Let me first outline some tours, and then we can
come back and talk more about each suggestion.
The first tour has to be the obvious one. Consider staying in Winchester and see the local
sights. There's Winchester Cathedral, the
Winchester (City) Museum, the Westgate Museum, the
Great Hall, the River Itchen, and much more.
In the area just around Winchester, you could
enjoy a few hours at the Marwell Zoo, or drive
down to Romsey to see the Abbey or Lord
Mountbatten's estate called Broadlands. There are
not many high vistas in Hampshire, but Farley's
Mount would be an interesting excursion on a
country back road.
But assuming you want to 'get away', the next
obvious tour would be a drive in the direction of
Portsmouth and then on to Arundel. And if you'd
like to head in the opposite direction, it's an
easy drive to the New Forest, Buckler's Hard and
Lymington.
A day's outing to the Basingstoke area, Reading
and Oxford would be a nice circuit. I would
include in this tour, a visit to Woodstock, and
Blenheim Palace, the birthplace of Winston
Churchill. I would also consider a visit to
Hungerford, where there is the largest collection
of Civil War armor on display at Littlecote, and
where, in summer, there are jousting exhibitions.
To the west you might try seeing the village of
Crawley, then through the Wallops, enroute to
Stonehenge, Old Sarum and Salisbury. Then you can
continue over to Shaftesbury, see the Tank Museum
at Bovington near Wareham, and finally Corfe
Castle before turning back to Winchester.
A favorite trip for many is to head for Bath.
Bath in itself has many attractions, and there are
many to see on the way there, and also on the
return. It's only 75 miles to Bath, but it might
be strong candidate for a weekend outing. Leave
Winchester early on a Saturday morning, see some
sights along the way and maybe get to Bath by late
afternoon. You could see more of Bath on Sunday
morning, do more touring on Sunday afternoon, and
then head back on Sunday evening.
A variation of the Bath suggestion, is to 'pop
over' and see a bit of Wales. An easy loop would
be over to Cardiff, maybe to Swansea, and then
start heading back east, maybe through the
Cotswolds enroute to Winchester.
If you're interested in Land's End, the clotted
cream of Devon, the unique charm of Clovelly and
the castles of Dunster, Sherbourne and Wardour,
you had best plan for a two day weekend. I would
add to this itinerary a stop at the Fleet Air
Museum in Yeovilton.
To the north, you could fit in a visit to
Stratford-upon-Avon, Warwick and Coventry, in one
long day, but if you want to take in a
Shakespearean play, you probably should stay overnight and fill out the next day, maybe with a
return by way of Birmingham and down through the
Cotswolds again, enroute to Winchester.
The Cotswolds are a delight unto themselves. You
could plan a day or a weekend touring the many and
varied villages, with their cottages made of
Cotswold stone and trimmed with gardens as only
the English can provide.
A swing to the northeast might include Windsor
Castle (if you haven't seen it before), around the
north side of London, to the Hatfield House near
St. Albans, up to the Duxford Museum, the busy
university city of Cambridge, and the cathedral at
Ely.
If you continue north, you could visit King's Lynn
and the crystal shops, up to Sandringham House to
see if the Queen's 'in', over to Burghley House in
Stamford, and then probably back to Winchester.
If you want to see Yorkshire, or the Lake District, you probably should plan to drive up on
Friday night, staying at Leeds or some other
central location. A swing to the east could
include the fascinating town of York, Castle
Howard, Scarborough, up to Whitby and back through
the Yorkshire moors to your hotel.
A swing to the west would probably weave some
pleasant tour through the Lake District and towns
like Windermere and Keswick before returning to
your hotel. The Lake District has some of the
highest 'peaks' in all of England, but realize
that might only be several thousand feet and not
the heights of something like the Rocky Mountains
or Sierra Nevada range in the U.S.
I think that's enough of an outline. Let's now go
back and expand on each of these suggestions. Do
remember, that these are just suggestions, and you
would be encouraged to study your maps and tour
books and adjust an itinerary to suit your personal tastes.
[Return to Table of Contents] After you have walked about in the centre of
Winchester, you may wish to start seeing the
sights in the surrounding area. Just on the edge
of town is St.Catherine's Hill, which probably
will give you one of the few high vistas in the
area. You'll have a couple of challenges with the
hill however.
There is no easy way to explain how to get to and
up the hill. The Winchester bypass skirts the
foot of the hill and pedestrians certainly don't
want to try dodging traffic on the A33. So, if
you can follow some directions, maybe we can get
you to 'the top of the hill'.
Leaving Winchester, past the Old Chesil Rectory on
Chesil Street and Bar End Road, go straight
through the roundabout instead of taking the A33
or A272 turns, and you'll be on Morestead Road.
Look for footpath signs on the right hand side of
the road that will take you to the top of the
hill. Park wherever you think you're safely off
the highway. And I hope you have a good pair of
walking shoes because the hill is steep for some.
The other approach to St.Catherine's Hill is from
Garnier Road. If you were headed south on
Southgate, you could turn left on Kingsgate, and
then right on Garnier. Just before you get to the
A33 highway, look for a small car park. From
there you should be able to spot the footpath
along the Itchen Navigation which will give you
access to the hill. Happy climbing, and I hope
the weather is clear for your view of the area.
St. Catherine's Hill, by the way, is the site of
Iron Age fort (circa 500 B.C.). Other similar
landmarks exist in the area. You may hear people
talk about Merdon Castle, which once stood near
Hursley, however nothing remains now.
If it's a country view you'd like, you could leave
Winchester by going past the Westgate and out the
Romsey Road towards Hursley. When you pass the
prison on your right and the Hospital on your
left, look for Sarum Road, which would angle to
your right. If you come to a small round about,
you've miss Sarum Road. Assuming you get on the
right road, it's about four miles or so to Farley
Mount.
Farley Mount is a country park, with ample opportunity to get out and walk about. A climb to the
top of the mount will bring you to an odd burial
monument dedicated to, of all things, a horse.
Another attraction in the Winchester area, not to
be overlooked, is Marwell Zoo. For years, I
ignored it, thinking how good could a zoo be
located in this part of the country. Having
visited the zoo, I am now impressed and will
revisit in the future.
If you leave Winchester, headed south on either
the A33 or using Southgate which turns into
St.Cross, you'll come to the common intersection
of A33 and B3335. You should see signs for the
zoo, as you follow this road for a bit to Fisher's
Pond, where you will turn left on the B2177 and
onto the zoo. Say hello to the animals for me.
Romsey is about ten miles southwest of Winchester,
using the A3090 and A31 to get there. The two
major attractions there would be Romsey Abbey and
Lord Mountbatten's Broadlands estate. The Abbey
is about 850 years old and is an actively used and
visited church. There are number of notable
points of interest in and around the Abbey.
At Broadlands, a visitor can browse the palladian
mansion which is well maintain and displays much
of the personal life of Lord Mountbatten. On the
property is an Exhibition devoted to the Naval and
diplomatic career of Mountbatten, the last Viceroy
of India, Earl of Burma.
[Return to Table of Contents] A day's outing that I would highly recommend would
be one that took you east from Southampton, to
Portsmouth, Fishbourne and Arundel. Unfortunately, there is no meaningful 'loop tour' that I
can suggest, so your return trip is going to be by
the same route.
If you leave your hotel in the Winchester area
after breakfast some weekend morning, you could
easily be in Portsmouth within an hour. The major
attractions at Portsmouth may not be open until
10:30AM so an interim stop at Portchester can be
useful and enjoyable.
You can take the A33 from Winchester, south to the
M27 and then east. Get off the M27 at exit 11 and
pick up the A27 going east to Portchester. You
should see signs for Portchester Castle and in a
short distance you can park your car and have an
interesting short tour.
The castle remains are essentially the outer wall
and a restructured keep. I enjoy the climb into
the keep, and the view from its very top. There's
a small church within the castle walls that you
can walk about, or you may wish to go outside the
castle walls and walk along the water's edge for a
view of Portsmouth Harbour.
[Return to Table of Contents] After your short tour you can then resume your
trip to Portsmouth. You can follow the A27 east,
and take any of the signs into the city. Look for
signs indicating the HMS Victory or Mary Rose or
Naval Shipyard. Its easy for me to say, because
I've been there, but the place you'd like to park
is where Queen Street ends at the HMS Naval
Dockyard.
The primary attractions here will be Lord Nelson's
ship, the HMS Victory, an eighteenth century man-o-war. The ship is continually maintained and
staffed by regular midshipmen of the Royal Navy.
I'm sure you'll enjoy their narrative as you tour
the fine vessel and see what life might have been
like in the Navy of 1805.
The Mary Rose is a Tudor warship which sank off
the coast of Southsea, near Portsmouth, in 1545,
during a battle with the French. In 1982, the
remains of the Mary Rose hull were hoisted from
its shallow grave and moved to Portsmouth in a
very complex recovery operation. The hull is now
on display in a specially constructed building.
Also located at the Navy Base is the Royal Naval
Museum, a very good gift shop, and in case you're
hungry, a nice coffee shop for snacks. Everything
being relative, I think I have enjoyed the naval
transportation displays at the Science Museum in
London more than the Naval Museum at Portsmouth.
A bit to the east of Portsmouth and the Naval
Base, and along the sea shore is the neighboring
community of Southsea. Perhaps of greater
interest than the public parks, food stalls and
amusements is the Southsea Castle and the D-Day
museum. The Southsea Castle was built in 1544 at
the time of Henry VII. The castle is well maintained and has exhibits illustrating the Tudor
strategy for defending the coastline at that time.
If you enjoy art, tapestry, needlepoint, and/or
the history of World War II, then the D-Day Museum
will be most enjoyable for you. I have repeatedly
visited the museum and don't seem to tire of its
displays. The Royal College of Needlework was
commissioned to create the 34 tapestry-like panels
now on display, which depict the D-Day invasion of
Europe in June 1944. The D-Day panels have a
marked similarity to the Bayeux tapestry, created
in 1472 to tell the story of William the
Conqueror's invasion of England.
[Return to Table of Contents] As you resume your travel towards Arundel, still
some 25 miles to the east, you would leave
Portsmouth on one of several roads (A3, M275, A288
or A2030), all of which will give you access to
the A27 headed east towards Chichester. Its about
15 miles to Chichester, but before getting there,
look for Fishbourne and signs indicating 'Roman
ruins'.
At twenty or so sites throughout England, Roman
ruins have been uncovered revealing not only the
architecture and art of those times, but a great
deal about life of the day. The Fishbourne excavation was discovered by accident and has now been
cleared to show a considerable portion of a Roman
villa foundation, with many of its mosaic floor
tiles still in place.
[Return to Table of Contents] Its easy access back onto the A27 and to complete
your journey to Arundel. There are castles
throughout Great Britain and the whole of Europe,
so you would be wise to limit how many of these
you might tour, because after a while they begin
to look and seem pretty much the same. Arundel is
too enjoyable to miss.
Arundel Castle dates back to the 1200's but there
has been building and rebuilding throughout the
centuries, making for an unusual structure. I
think you'll enjoy the massive ramparts or walls,
the precinct grounds, the keep, and the
quadrangle. There is so much to enjoy about this
castle, its content and its surroundings. Make
sure you fit this sight into your itinerary.
By this time, its been a long day, so I'm sure
you'll want to get back to your hotel location.
Have a safe trip. Rewind your film, and reload
your camera, for there's more touring to be done
in England.
[Return to Table of Contents] A day's outing that I enjoy over and over is one
to the New Forest and the towns and villages.
From the Winchester area, you could take the A33
south and the M27 west. I would exit at Cadnam
and head south on the A337 towards Lyndhurst. By
this time, you are now in the New Forest.
The idea of 'new forest' dates back to the 11th
century when King William I decreed that game and
forest should be preserved. Some of the decree is
still in force today because you'll see horses and
cattle roaming freely in the unfenced area of the
New Forest.
Depending on the time of day you're there, you may
see large groups of deer or other game. There are
many car parks and picnic areas to pull off the
road and enjoy the countryside. Whether you stop
or not, I would suggest you turn off at Lyndhurst
and follow the B3056.
Among my favorite places to visit is Beaulieu
(pronounced be-u-lee). At Beaulieu you will find
the National Motor Museum where over 200 antique
and rare vehicles are on display. This would
include old racing cars, motorcycles, specialty
vehicles and so on. At the Motor Museum there are
also many other educational exhibits on the
motoring industry.
On the same property as the museum is the Beaulieu
Palace and Abbey. The palace is not what you
would expect, but I would highly recommend a
visit. The large home is well preserved and furnished with many old and interesting pieces.
There is an informed staff on duty to help explain
the house and its content. Look for the priest's
hole upstairs, or the servants bells in the
kitchen pantry area. I think you'll find any
number of things to catch your interest.
There are other amusements on the museum property
which you may find interesting, such as the model
train exhibit. After your visit you can motor
into the village of Beaulieu and have coffee or
maybe lunch in the village hotel and pub. Then
it's on to places like Buckler's Hard, just a few
miles down the road. At Buckler's Hard you'll
find the Maritime Museum and an interesting
history of ship building.
From Buckler's Hard, I would drive west over to
Lymington, a most enjoyable sea coast town.
Instead of following the A337 as it leaves town,
look carefully for signs pointing to the quay
(pronounced 'key'). A quay is nothing more than
the wharf or dock area.
You can watch the sail boats or other ships go by.
Lymington has ferry boats that travel regularly to
the Isle of Wight which should be visible on a
clear day because it's only five miles away. I
enjoy the shops along the quay. Even the ship's
chandler shop may have items of interest to you
whether you're a sailor or not. Warm sweaters and
bright wet weather gear are just some of the
things that might attract you.
One of my favorite restaurants is in Lymington.
It's called the New Flounders, located on Quay
Street. But with so many good pubs around, you
might have a pub lunch and save the New Flounders
and its seafood menu for some evening.
If you're so inclined, you can continue your
journey a bit further to the west on the A337,
turning south when you see signs for
Milford-on-Sea and more specifically Keyhaven.
From there you can either walk two miles out on
rocky peninsula to Hurst Castle or catch a ferry
from Keyhaven to the castle. You might consider
walking and then ride the ferry back to Keyhaven.
Hurst Castle dates back to the 1500's and was part
of the same defense strategy that included other
castles such as Southsea near Portsmouth.
Depending on the time of year and weather, your
tramp out to the middle of this seaway might be
rewarded with lots of boats and ships sailing
about. This waterway is called the Solent where
the the Southampton Water spills both east and
west around the Isle of Wight as it makes its way
to the English Channel.
If you do all the things suggested thusfar, you
probably won't have much time remaining in a
single day. If you passed on any of these ideas,
I might suggest one or two other things you might
consider as you loop back to the Winchester area.
On a road going northwest/southeast between the
A35 west of Lyndhurst and the A337 at Brockenhurst
is a place called Rhinefield on the so-called
Ornamental Drive. This is castle-like hotel and
restaurant which is worth considering for a visit.
If you travel west of Lyndhurst on the A35, look
for a small sign on your left pointing to
Rhinefield. Depending on the time of year, the
huge plants may be in full bloom along this very
rural road, making your visit that much more
delightful.
Or could leave Lymington headed west to
Christchurch, where there is some castle and
Norman house ruins, and then north to
Fordingbridge on the A338, where just beyond is
Breamore. At Breamore you'll find Breamore House,
an Elizabethan house, and a collection of old
coaches in the Carriage Museum. During the summer
months, jousting exhibitions are performed here.
To the west of Fordingbridge is Rockbourne and the
site of an excavated Roman villa. There are a
number of such excavations throughout England.
Now, by this time, surely you've had a full day
and can return to your hotel confident that you've
had a good bit of touring.
[Return to Table of Contents] A touring direction from Winchester which might
not be too obvious would be to head northeast,
then swing northwest and finally coming back south
to Winchester. Included in this itinerary would
be such sights as The Vyne, the Duke of
Wellington's home at Stratfield Saye, and then
passing through the Reading area enroute to Oxford
and Woodstock.
Oxford is primarily a university town with its
numerous colleges, but a short distance to the
north is the charming village Woodstock and the
adjacent estate called Blenheim. Blenheim is the
birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill.
After your visit to Blenheim, you could venture
south to Littlecote at Hungerford, where you'll
see the largest collection of civil war armor and
a number of outdoor exhibitions including live
jousting demonstrations.
So, to begin, you could leave Winchester on the
A33/M3 and head towards Basingstoke. These 20
miles shouldn't take very long, so your next task
is to circumnavigate the town on the A33, headed
for Sherbourne St.John. The Vyne is an interesting estate,
designed to be unimpressive, yet by
its nature is quite the opposite. The Vyne is
about four miles north of Basingstoke, between
Sherbourne St. John and Bramley.
You can easily continue on the road to Bramley
after visiting the Vyne, and follow the signs to
Stratfield Saye, home of the Duke of Wellington.
The home was the Duke's reward after Waterloo, and
whereas it may be an interesting estate to tour,
the major attraction here is the the huge funeral
car (hearse) built from melted down French cannons
captured at Waterloo, and used to transport the
Duke to his final resting place.
From Stratfield Saye, you'll probably want to get
back onto the A33, north to meet the A4074 and
take it to Wallingford where you'll meet the A423
and onward to Oxford. I'm not sure what your
interest might be, but Oxford is basically a
'college town' with very old and interesting
architecture. A walking tour would be the easiest
way to see town centre and the various college
quadrangles that are nearby. If the door is open,
walk in.
A few miles north of Oxford is Woodstock, in which
you might take a moment to browse the shops or
have a beverage here or there. Then it's on to
visit Blenheim Palace. Here again, I hope you
brought along a good pair of walking shoes. The
Palace grounds are quite large, and there is lots
to be seen. After touring the building, do visit
the gardens and the grounds.
From Oxford, you'll want to head south returning
to the Winchester area. A good stop enroute would
be the town of Hungerford, on the A4 west of
Newbury, where nearby is the Littlecote estate.
In addition to the civil war armor display,
Littlecote also has a small excavation of Roman
mosaic tile. There are amusements, picnic
grounds, a working farm, a number of other visitor
attractions.
The jousting exhibitions are conducted in the
summer months. I found these to be well done and
quite realistic. The viewing audience gets to
participate in the manner of taking sides with the
white or black knight.
If you were interested in windmills, there is on
at Wilton, southwest of Hungerford, on the A338.
From Wilton, you could use the A338 and A342 south
to Ludgershall, the site of extensive earthworks
dating back to Henry III. From there you could
drive to Andover, east on the A303 and finally
south on the A34 to Winchester.
Like so many other busy touring days, this should
have filled your day to the point you're ready for
a comfortable hotel room. Rest well, because
there's more touring yet to be done.
[Return to Table of Contents] It's hard for me to rank 'favorite' trips, so I'm
content with the fact that there are multiple
areas of southern England that I enjoy touring,
and showing others those sights. One such
favorite tour is to leave Winchester on the A272
headed west and pass through Crawley(Hampshire)
and the Wallops enroute to Stonehenge, Old Sarum
and Salisbury. Then to round out the trip, I
would suggest going onto Shaftesbury, and then
down south on the A350 to the Wareham area where
you could visit the Tank Museum at Bovington or
the remains at Corfe Castle.
To begin this trip, get an early start after
breakfast some weekend day and use the A272 to
head towards Stockbridge. If you haven't been to
Crawley before, take a few minutes to leave the
highway and drive into the quaint village of
Crawley. If there were ever a contest (competition) for the 'quaintest' village in England,
Crawley would be a contender.
Crawley is not on the road to anywhere so you
won't have traffic there. In the centre of the
village is a picturesque pond complete with ducks,
geese, swan and maybe a few other fly-ins. The
village has but one pub and it's worth a trip back
some evening for dinner at the Fox and Hounds.
Resuming your trip, headed west on the A30, you
could look for signs to the Danebury Hill Fort,
just west of Stockbridge. This is the site of an
Iron Age hill fort and although there is little in
the way of ruins, the hillside view of the River
Test valley is worth a stroll in the country.
Resuming your trip, I would suggest you leave the
A30 just past Stockbridge and head north through
the Wallops. There's no need to stop, unless
you'd like to, but you can take in the scenic view
of Nether Wallop, Middle Wallop and Over Wallop as
you proceed to your next destination, Stonehenge.
I like the way the Wallops 'look'. There's
nothing hurried about the Wallops, and the small
stream that flows through the area adds charm to
the thatched roof houses and many of the bright,
white cottages along the way.
Just outside of Middle Wallop, northeast on the
A343, is the Army Flying Museum. There a number
of small vintage aircraft on display as well as
many exhibits of flying related memorabilia.
The B3084 can take you up to the A303 where you
would then head west to Stonehenge. I'm sure
you've seen pictures of this remarkable site, but
don't be disappointed when you actually see it.
Photographers have the advantage of waiting for
that one best moment to capture the huge stones in
a setting of bright sun or starlit night. You
will probably see the stones in stark daylight
with many tourists walking around to get their
best snapshot.
I doubt that you would spend more than a half hour
at Stonehenge, so you can double back to the east
towards Amesbury and from there use the A345 to
head south towards Salisbury. Before getting to
the city, do look to your right for one, very
small sign pointing off to Old Sarum. Take the
narrow road uphill and do your best to manage any
oncoming traffic until you reach the car park.
Old Sarum sits on a high hill overlooking the city
of Salisbury. What you will see are the remains
of an Iron Age camp, and the exposed foundations
of buildings both inside and outside the fortress.
The stone walls in some places are as much as 8-10
feet thick. I try to imagine what it might have
been like living or perhaps being besieged in such
a structure, some 2500 years ago.
Continuing into Salisbury, it should be midday and
you can easily find places to eat and/or places to
shop. I particularly like High Street, which
would give access to the Cathedral grounds, but
also has assorted shops, pubs and fine restaurants. You might consider walking across the
bridge to the other side of the River Avon which
would give you a picturesque view of the
Cathedral.
Salisbury Cathedral is in excellent condition and
very pleasant to tour. As mentioned earlier,
Salisbury Cathedral is noted for having the
highest spire of all cathedrals in England. Take
note of the statuary on the entire front of the
building. After touring the nave, take the door
outside to the Cloisters and from there walk into
the Charter House. A copy of the Magna Carta is
on display here.
Getting in and out of Salisbury can be a bit of
whirl on the so-called 'ring road', but bear with
it and look for signs to the A30 headed west to
Shaftesbury. My only reason for suggesting this
route is that Shaftesbury is one of the most photographed towns in England, with its very steeply
sloped cobblestone street.
So, assuming you don't spend much time there, you
might continue south on the A350 towards Poole,
and then look for the A351 to Wareham. If you're
interested in military museums, you might like to
visit the Tank Museum at Bovington, which is about
five miles west of Wareham.
Or you could go 5-6 miles south beyond Wareham to
the interesting town of Corfe Castle. One of
England's best known castle ruins, it stands high
on a hill. The town is an interesting one, so you
may wish to walk about before heading back to your
hotel in the Winchester area.
Getting you back from Wareham, I would use any one
of several roads to get to the A31 which would
take me to Ringwood and then connect to the M27,
and the A33 north to Winchester.
[Return to Table of Contents] To plan a tour originating in the Winchester area
and basically going in the direction of Bath,
poses but one problem. There are so many possibilities, it will be difficult for you to make a
choice. But let me give a description of some
things you might consider and try to help you in
your decision making.
If you're staying in Winchester, you'll want to
begin your drive by using the A272 and A30, west
to Salisbury. If you're staying in Ampfield or
Romsey, you can pick up the A27 just south of
Romsey, and get up to Salisbury that way. If
you're staying in Southampton, just as you leave
the city on the A33, look for signs to the A27 and
Romsey, and you'll be on the same route to
Salisbury.
In an earlier section, we talked about Salisbury,
Stonehenge and Old Sarum, so I won't go into that
here. But in the event that you have not seen
those sights, you might wish to consider including
them in your jaunt to Bath. The problem will be
time. Time to see what there is in the Salisbury
area, and what's along the way to Bath, and then
Bath itself. I hope you're planning the weekend
because you'll never see all that in one round
trip day.
Once you get to Salisbury, you will use the A36 to
continue in a northwesterly direction. Just west
of Warminster, you should stop off to see Longleat
House. There are plenty of signs so I don't think
you'll have difficulty locating Longleat. The
House was built in the 1500's but is decorated in
an Italian style of the 19th century. There are
other amusements on the property but you may not
wish to spend time with those.
Depending on which road you used to get to
Longleat House, you may wish to plan a route to
take you through Frome, where nearby is Nunney
Castle. There is a not a whole lot to see, but I
think the remains of this castle and its setting
is neat. And if you're thirsty, there is a nice,
warm pub just across the road.
As you find your way back onto the A36, headed to
Bath, you might wish to take a novel detour when
you see signs for the American Museum. Built in
the 1800's this museum brings a bit of Americana
to the British Isles. Winston Churchill gave one
of his first political speeches from this
location. The American Museum is at Claverton.
[Return to Table of Contents] Now, onto Bath. Surely, a must is to see the
baths at Bath. You can see the hot springs of the
spa, and try to imagine the days of the Romans.
To some, it becomes tradition to have tea in the
Pump Room, listen to some chamber music or a
stringed quartet, and certainly have a famous Bath
Bun. Whether you eat at the Pump Room or not, do
have a Bath Bun, and maybe even get a few for
'take away' and you can enjoy it during the rest
of your travels.
Bath has its Abbey and for those interested in
architecture and church history, it's worth
including in your tour. Near the Abbey you should
easily find the beautiful Parade Gardens, Pulteney
Bridge, and the grandeur of the River Avon flowing
through the city.
Shopping is a delight, with many shops in town
centre. The open plaza area just outside the
Abbey is often the site of free exhibitions of one
sort or another. Pick up a good tour book which
includes a map of the city, because I think you'll
enjoy walking around this fine city.
If you enjoy architecture, I think you should walk
up and see The Crescent. The Bath Carriage Museum
is unique and interesting. There are a number of
other sites to see in this city, but I'll leave
that to you to make a choice. Because there is so
much to do in the area, you may wish to consider
staying overnight and there are many good accommodations in the area.
[Return to Table of Contents] Whenever you can bring yourself to leave Bath, I
would strongly suggest you consider a short trip
over to Castle Combe. You'll love it. And if you
were a 'big spender' you might even consider
staying at the five star hotel in this very small
village. To get to Castle Combe from Bath, take
the A46 north for eight miles or so, and then east
on the A420 east towards Chippenham. Look for
signs signalling you to turn left to Castle Combe.
I think many of you will recognize the village
when you see it. Picturesque? This is it! If
you have seen the Jaguar ads (that's jag-u-uh, not
jag-whar, by the way) - anyway, if you have seen
the posh ads showing the absolutely old world
village, then you will recognize Castle Combe.
Other than the blacktop of the road through the
village, you could very well imagine yourself in
15th century England. The houses may be modernized on the interior but the exterior image to the
visitor is a sight to behold. Stone cottages, an
arched stone bridge over the water, and the market
cross, 'lovingly preserved' in village centre.
As always, I suggest you have your camera along.
There's too much to miss in this village. And do
walk up to the hotel and see its country setting.
There are a few very small gift shops in the
village, so stop in and say hello.
[Return to Table of Contents] If you're still up to touring, you can extend your
trip northwest from Winchester by now venturing to
Bristol and beyond. You can take the A4 from
Bath, or take the A420 back to the west and
Bristol.
Bristol is a large city, with all the ingredients
that make it a vibrant city. A fine university, a
cultural environment, its share of architecture
and so on. I have stayed the weekend in Bristol,
making it a 'base of operations', while I toured
the surrounding area, and came back for dinner and
theatre in the city.
From Bristol, you may wish to consider at least a
short tour of Wales. Find your way north out of
the city and take the M4 across the Severn Road
Bridge. Crossing over the toll bridge will give
you a good view of the River Severn.
Just into Wales, you should look for signs to the
A466 and Chepstow. It's just a short distance to
the town, and you could make a quick tour of
Chepstow Castle whose history dates back to 1067.
Then find your way back down to the M4 and continue west to exit 32. Here you can go south into
Cardiff to visit Cardiff Castle in city centre,
and you might also consider St.Fagans which is
about four miles west of the city. To the north,
on the A470 you should look for Castell Coch, just
a bit beyond the intersection with the M4.
You could continue north on the A466 to the A465
and then loop to the east to work your way back
towards Winchester. Along the A465 and just
before you get to the A449, look for Raglan, which
has still another castle you might find interesting.
Now, you have to decide how you want to get back
to Winchester. You could go south on the A449 to
the M4, M4 to the Newbury area, and then south on
the A34 to Winchester. With most people doing 70
(or more) on the M4, it could be a quick but uninteresting return trip.
Or for something a bit more interesting, you could
follow the A40 to Gloucester and on to Oxford,
there picking up the A34 headed south to
Winchester. Other variations, such as the A417
and the A419 would take you through the so-called
Cotswold area, get you to Swindon, the M5 to
Newbury and the A34 to Winchester.
This brings this suggested itinerary to a close.
Lots of suggestions here. You have to pick and
choose, because you can't fit it all into one day.
You will have some logistics and time tables to
work out, where to stay, what to see, etc. But
the opportunities are there. Lots to see and do,
and much to enjoy. Have a good trip and a safe
return.
[Return to Table of Contents] From Winchester to Land's End is about 200 miles.
That's a lot of ground to cover, there and back,
but I think you'll enjoy all of it. Let me give a
basic itinerary and then you decide how you might
customize it to your interests.
If I were headed to Land's End and the 'far
reaches' of Cornwall and Devon, I would plan a
weekend with at least a Saturday night hotel in
say Penzance or some other city in that area. If
you are going to do some meaningful sightseeing
and cover the mileage, I don't see how you would
do it except with at least one overnight stay.
I have been to Torquay and back to Winchester in
one day, but that was for something special. The
West of England deserves more of your time and
attention.
So, if I were headed to Land's End and places in
between, I would consider leaving Winchester by
going west on the A272 and A30 to Salisbury and
Shaftesbury. Before reaching Shaftesbury, you
will have a couple of opportunities to see some
interesting attractions.
At Fovant, to your left on the south side of the
highway, look for the interesting 'hill figures'
made entirely of stone. Or consider pulling off
the highway and head a bit north to Tisbury where
you'll find the Wardour and Old Wardour Castles.
A bit of back road driving, but you may enjoy it.
When you resume on the A30, take time to stop in
Shaftesbury and photograph the picturesque and
very steep streets of that town. Then continuing
on the A30, you could visit the old and new
castles of Sherborne. Sir Walter Raleigh is a
part of the history of these structures. From
Sherborne, you could drive to Yeovil and then
north on the A359 to Yeovilton. Here you will
find the Fleet Air Museum.
If you like aircraft and the air force, you'll
love Yeovilton. The planes and the exhibits are
super. You can walk aboard one of the early engineering models of the SST or see the detailed
Falkland Island exhibit.
Continuing on to the west, there are sights to see
everywhere. You might consider Powderham Castle
just south of Exeter. You may wish to drive south
along the 'English Riviera' of which Torquay and
Torbay are the primary cities.
In the northern part of Torquay is a place called
Babbacombe which is the site of something called
the Model Village. If you like modelling or miniature plants, you should enjoy the Model Village.
All exhibits are scaled down to 12:1 (for every
foot of the real subject, the model is one inch).
There is another Model Village I found interesting
in Beaconsfield, just north of Windsor.
People who enjoy sailing might enjoy a route which
takes them to Dartmouth along this most interesting coastline. Or if your main goal is Land's
End, you may be more interested in getting back
onto the A38 and head west.
I think the town centre of Plymouth is nice, and I
would even suggest a brief drive through Falmouth
to see another seaside town. St. Michael's Mount
will give you an interesting view of an island
that one could almost walk to if the tide were
out.
And finally you can come to rest in Penzance at
the end of a long day. Don't look for accommodations in the Land's End area because there
aren't any. But when you wake up refreshed the
next morning, you will have a short drive to the
'Last and First House in England'. There is a
sign on a building at Land's End that bears this
message. The rocky shoreline is a sight to
behold, but don't venture too far down on the
rocks.
After Land's End, you have a choice of how you
would like to return to the east. You could go
back on the A30 which would take you across the
Dartmoor moors to Exeter. I would rather journey
the west coast of Cornwall. Leaving Land's End, I
would follow the A30 and A39, headed for Clovelly,
but with side trips into Newquay and over to
Tintagel.
Newquay reminds me of some California seaside
town, with palm trees and stucco cottages. At
Tintagel are some castle ruins on the edge of a
cliff.
But my real destination would be Clovelly. I
don't think there is another village or town quite
like it. Clovelly is just off the A39, just west
of Barnstaple, and it's on the north Devon shore.
You can't drive into this town, because it's situated on a very steep hillside. Look for signs to
the car park, and from there, be prepared for a
steep walk, downhill, and later uphill.
There are shops along the steep cobblestone street
to the quay and the sea, so shop and/or take lots
of pictures of this unique village. The street is
so steep that donkeys have been used to carry
loads up or down the slope.
At the quay, you can watch the people tend their
boats, or stop into the hotel's cafe/restaurant
for some coffee and a taste of Devon clotted
cream. You might have a sweet strawberry tart,
smothered in clotted cream. Hmmmm, good!
From Clovelly, headed east, you have a couple of
options. You could get to Barnstaple, and head
towards Exeter on the A377, following the very
scenic River Taw. If you go this way, be prepared
to stop along the highway and enjoy the river rambling on your same route.
Or, from Barnstaple, you could take the A36 and
the A373 to get to Tiverton, so as to enjoy its
castle. From there, you could journey north on
the A396 to Dunster, where there is another interesting castle and grounds to tour.
From the Dunster area, I would work my way east to
Taunton, and use the A358 to get to the A303 which
would be very good road for the journey back to
Winchester. The A303 will take you to just north
of Winchester where you can drop south on the A34
and return to your hotel for a good rest.
[Return to Table of Contents] The Cotswolds lie to the north and bit west of
Winchester. The ideal time to visit this area
would be the spring or early summer when the
English gardens are in full bloom, accentuating
the classic beauty of the many villages in the
area.
What are the Cotswolds? Well, it's a hilly area,
perhaps mountainous to the English. These rolling
hills provide the setting for some of the most
interesting villages in the whole of England. A
yellow stone is quarried locally and is often
referred to as the 'Cotswold stone'. This stone
has been used for centuries for the building of
homes in this area and in a distinctive style
which continues to be popular today.
You can plan for a single day's outing to visit
the Cotswolds, or you can make a weekend of it. A
one day outing and return might include a visit to
Chipping Norton, Moreton-in-Marsh, Chipping
Campden, Mickleton, Broadway, Broadway Tower,
Winchcombe, Sudeley Castle, Upper and Lower Swell,
Upper and Lower Slaughter, Bourton-on-the-Water,
Northleach, Windrush, Great and Little Barrington,
and Burford. A weekend outing could include more
of the Cotswolds such as Tewkesbury, Gloucester,
Cheltenham, Chedworth, Cirencester, Arlington,
Bibury, and Maimesbury.
My favorites are Upper and Lower Slaughter and
Bourton-on-the-Water. In Bourton-on-the-Water,
I'm fascinated by the Model Village which is a
model of the village itself, and contained in the
model is a model of the model. You have to see it
to believe it.
Assuming you're interested in a one day outing,
then venture north from Winchester using the A34
to Oxford, and then continuing on to Chipping
Norton. If you have not visited Woodstock and
Blenheim, childhood home of Winston Churchill, you
might consider it on this trip, but Blenheim might
not be open if you're there too early in the
morning.
At Chipping Norton, you begin to see the typical
Cotswold town, with buildings of Cotswold stone
everywhere and the streets offering you a challenge to test your driving and parking skills. I
would suggest buying a good guide book for the
area before your trip, one which has maps and
mini-maps to detail the area you will visit.
In Chipping Norton, if you can find Church Street,
that will take you past the quaint Almshouses and
down to the Parish Church, built in the so-called
'perpendicular' style'.
Your next stop along the way could then be
Moreton-in-Marsh. Curfew Tower and Market Hall
are prime attractions in the town. Stop into one
of the coffee shops along the High Street and
enjoy watching the locals come to market.
Chipping Camden, like many Cotswold villages, came
to be what it is because of the wool industry.
The Market Hall and Woolstapler's Museum are on
the High Street. Visit the town's Parish Church,
the Almshouses or Bedfont House for more local
interest.
Mickelton is a village with pride. Just take note
of the care in which the English garden is maintained and how the flowers give a colorful setting
to the thatched-roofed cottages made of Cotwsold
stone.
Broadway is a blend of the old and the new. There
are new shops, built in the Cotswold style that do
not take away from the older buildings such as the
famous Lygon Arms Hotel on the High Street.
Nearby, the Broadway Tower can give you a grand
view of the Cotswold countryside from a 1000 foot
elevation.
A visit to Winchcombe would show you a different,
but similar village, and then you could proceed to
Sudeley Castle. I think the gardens at Sudeley
Castle are a delight, but the castle and its
history is interesting as well.
You can pass through Upper and Lower Swell,
enroute to Stow-on-the-Wold. If it's midday, I
hope you have stopped into one of many pubs along
the way. When in doubt, look for a country pub
with a lot of cars around it. Like a good 'truck
stop', the crowded car park tells you something.
At Stow-on-the-Wold, you can get out and walk
around to really experience the town, but you
might save your walking for Upper and Lower
Slaughter which are nearby. The River Eye flows
through the Slaughters, and I mean 'through'.
Some side roads are marked 'not suitable' for
automobiles to warn motorists that you may have to
drive through a foot of water. Interesting villages.
At Upper Slaughter, I would visit the Norman
church and the flowing River Eye. At Lower
Slaughter, I would walk on either side of river to
take in the beauty of the village, and visit the
water-mill at one end of the village.
Bourton-on-the-Water can be quite crowded on the
weekend, so be prepared that you may not be the
only one to visit the Cotswolds. Many shops and
eating places line the High Street. My favorite
sight is the Model Village, which is quite unique.
Not only is it a model village scaled down to 9:1
but it is a model of Bourton-on-the-Water itself.
Not to stop there, the model has a model of the
model. You get the picture, I'm sure.
By this time, you could very well be exhausted and
could return to Winchester. Or you could try to
see a bit more of the Cotswolds before returning,
if it's a one day outing for you. If you have
made plans for a weekend in the Cotswolds, then
there certainly is more for you to see.
Northleach may not be as colorful as other
Cotswold villages, but it offers its own contrast
with consistency. There is the Cotswold Countryside Collection (a museum) in Northleach which
once was a prison building.
The little villages of Windrush, Great and Little
Barrington, are an easy side trip enroute to
Burford. If you simply drive through Burford, you
haven't really seen Burford. Park and walk.
Burford Bridge, Weaver's Cottages, and much more
are there for the visitor.
If you have planned a weekend, try to include
Tewkesbury, Gloucester and Cheltenham, to the
west, in your itinerary. Tewkesbury is not considered Cotswold but it has much to offer the
sightseer. Gloucester is a good sized city and
its cathedral is a special attraction. Chedworth,
Arlington and Bibury should also be on your list
of villages to see. Cirencester has the Roman
amphitheatre and wall in addition to its share of
Cotswold architecture.
This has just been a sample of a tour you might
make in and through the Cotswolds. I'm sure with
a little bit of reading and research on your part,
you can learn more about what this area has to
offer the tourist. In any case, take your camera,
and you can later show your friends the charm of
the Cotswolds.
[Return to Table of Contents] Many people are interested in William Shakespeare
and a visit to England might be an opportunity to
learn more about the bard and his works. Or the
contention that he could not have written what the
world thinks he has written.
If you're going to consider a trip from Winchester
to Stratford-upon-Avon to see the home of
Shakespeare, you may as well plan to see Warwick
and Coventry in the same journey. Warwick is pronounced wo-rick and is the site of one of the most
interesting and well-preserved castles in all of
England. At Coventry, you'll be able to see a
city which rose up from the ashes of World War II.
If you were going to consider seeing Shakespearean
work at the Royal Theatre, you first of all should
get reservations well in advance. The theatre is
heavily booked and I would not count on no-shows
to provide late availability of seats. Next I
would plan for an overnight stay, so as to tour
the area and enjoy the theatre on a Saturday
night.
While in Stratford-upon-Avon, I'm sure you'll want
to take in the home of Shakespeare, the small
museum which is nearby, and other shops and old
houses in the city.
The route to Stratford-upon-Avon is simply following the A34 north from Winchester, passing
through Oxford on the way. If you have not seen
Oxford on some other jaunt, this would be an easy
opportunity to include it in this itinerary.
Oxford is noted for the university and its colleges, and also for the architecture throughout
the city.
Winchester to Oxford is about 50 miles and it will
be another 40 to Stratford-upon-Avon. An easy
drive, actually. Time enough for a short morning
or noon hour tour of Oxford, then onto Stratford
for a dinner and the evening performance at the
Royal Theatre. The following day, you can visit
Warwick Castle, see Coventry and then head back to
Winchester.
Warwick is only ten miles from Stratford-upon-Avon, so you'll have plenty of time to tour the
Castle. The castle is well preserved. You'll
enjoy touring all parts of it, and if you have
your camera along, you'll have many opportunities
for photography.
The Gatehouse, Caesar's Tower and Guy's Tower are
worth climbing up and down the sometimes narrow
stone stairwells. Follow the signs and see the
dungeon and torture chamber. Go outside the
castle walls and see the River Avon or the huge
garden areas.
Coventry is about 15 miles from Warwick and it's
so near that it's worth a drive into the city just
to look around. You can see both the old and the
new Cathedral in the city centre. All that's left
of the old cathedral are its walls, the rest being
destroyed by bombing in World War II. The very
modern new cathedral is hardly like any of the old
churches of this country.
Not too far north of Coventry, I found the town of
Tamworth to be quite enjoyable. A nice shopping
area in town centre, a friendly public park, and a
very interesting castle and garden.
Stratford, Warwick and Coventry could very well be
considered as part of some other, more encompassing tour you plan. I have treated it here as
separate trip, with a return to Winchester. You
may wish to venture still further north, to
explore areas like Yorkshire or the Lake District.
[Return to Table of Contents] After you have toured the south of England in one
way or another, you start to look for other
directions that maybe you have not explored.
North of London is an area referred to as East
Anglia. Let me describe an itinerary that could
take you through this area and loop back for your
return to the Winchester area.
If you have not already seen Windsor and its
castle, I would certainly include that on this
tour. I would leave the Winchester area using the
A33 and M3 to get to the greater London area. You
could pick a road to leave the M3 and go directly
north to Windsor, but for expediency I would use
the M3 to the M25 and loop back to the west on the
M4 and exit at the Windsor signs.
Windsor is a tourist town. It has shops and pubs
and tourist attractions. There are many signs to
guide you and many car parks to give easy access
to what the town has to offer. But the main
attraction, I would think, is Windsor Castle.
You can tour the castle grounds, see the changing
of the guard, visit the state apartments, the
gardens, the doll house, and more. And if you
have your camera, clearly this is a photographer's
delight.
Just north of Windsor, on the A355 is the town of
Beaconsfield. Located here is a Model Village
called Bekonscot. This village is much like
Babbacombe in Torquay, where all the displays are
scaled down 12:1. If you're into modelling or
miniature gardening, you may find this interesting.
You could head back east and get onto the M25 to
loop clockwise around London. In this area, you
might consider visiting Hatfield House (in
Hatfield), before turning north on the A10 headed
to the Cambridge area. Hatfield House is the
childhood home of Elizabeth I and is a popular
sight for tourists.
Just south of Cambridge is Duxford. Here you will
find a museum dedicated to aircraft and a variety
of World War II memorabilia. Duxford was one of
the many airfields in England used as a base for
Allied operations over Europe. There are many
exhibits of actual aircraft and many indoor displays.
Unless your visit to Cambridge is during the week,
I'm afraid to tell you that this university town
will be quite bustling on the weekend. When you
mix a college student population, with the locals
trying to do Saturday shopping, and then a bunch
of tourists adding to the confusion, there's no
other way to describe it except bustling. The
town is an interesting one, with parks and shops
and of course the university to see. I leave it
to you to plan your visit.
Continuing north on the A10 will take you to Ely,
and another fine cathedral of England. Further
north on the A10 is the town of King's Lynn which
is noted for its crystal shops. And just a bit
north of King's Lynn is Sandringham, one of the
homes of the Royal Family of England. You can
tour the property if the Queen is not in residence.
From here, I would head west on the A16 and A17 to
Stamford where Burghley House is located. This
fine Elizabethan House is described as one of the
best preservations of this type of architecture.
It's certainly worth your visit.
At this point, you could head back to Winchester,
or you could continue to the north or some other
variation of a weekend tour.
[Return to Table of Contents] Without actually going into Scotland, a trip to
the north of England means touring Yorkshire to
the east and the Lake District to the west.
Assuming you have a car and this will be a driving
tour, then because of the distance from the
Winchester area, I certainly would expect you to
make a weekend trip in this case.
I would leave the Winchester area on a Friday afternoon, covering the 200 miles to Leeds via
Motorway in about five hours. I would take the A34
north out of Winchester to Oxford, and the A43
from there to Northampton where I would pick up
the M1 headed north. Most of your trip will be on
the high speed motorway, so that's in your favor.
But remember it's Friday afternoon, and there is
bound to be a fair share of traffic.
Just east of the M1 and north of Nottingham is
Sherwood Forest. There is not much here for the
average tourist, but there is the forest, and some
pleasant walking trails, if that's your thing.
Say hello to Robin Hood and all the gang.
Someone might offer you a suggestion of where to
stay in the north, but I find Leeds a good 'base
of operations. You can enjoy dinner and theatre
in city centre on Friday evening, and then venture
out to the east or west on Saturday and Sunday.
In addition to good theatre in Leeds, just a short
distance to the north is Harrogate and it has its
share of theatre as well.
Saturday morning would be a good time to visit the
fascinating city of York which is only 25 miles to
the east of Leeds. There is the unusual city
wall, the Minster (cathedral), Michael's Gate, and
countless other things to see. But you may wish
to 'push on' and visit Castle Howard which is off
the A64. This place is huge so if you plan to
tour be prepared for a bit of walking.
On the eastern seaboard is the storybook town of
Scarborough. Built on the edge of the land,
you'll find yourself weaving through narrow
streets, but enjoying every bit of it. Take the
time to see the Scarborough Castle while you're
there. Then continue north on the A171 and visit
the town of Whitby, its Abbey and the surrounding
area.
As you motor west, if it hasn't occurred to you
yet, the countryside is the Yorkshire Moors
National Park. Many the story that has been
written about the moors and its people. When you
get into the Darlington area, you have to know if
your plan is to continue touring for the day, or
to head back to wherever you have booked a room
for the weekend. I probably would head south on
the A1, have a good dinner in the Leeds area, and
maybe try to take in another play or theatre production for the Saturday night.
On the next day, I would suggest a tour of the
Lake District in amongst the Cumbrian Mountains.
Don't expect the Sierra Nevadas or the Rocky Mountains, but the combination of these mountains and
the glassy smooth lakes is a sight to behold.
Instead of staying in a city such as Leeds, you
might plan your weekend by staying in one of the
many small hotels in the Lake District.
I like the Windermere area particularly, but I
must warn you, that the roads are narrow and the
traffic usually heavy. So, don't be in a hurry
and enjoy what you came to see.
If I stayed at Leeds, I would use something like
the A65 to get to the Windermere area. From
there, I leave it to you to choose some routing in
and about the lakes and mountains. They're all a
pleasure. You may wish to swing over to the west
coastline, passing through towns such as
Whitehaven and Workington.
You could return to Winchester area by taking the
M6 south from the Lake District, down through
Manchester, Wolverhampton and Birmingham. From
there, you could use the A34 to Oxford and finally
to Winchester. A long weekend, to be sure, but
one you'll remember for a long time.
[Return to Table of Contents] This book has given me a lot of pleasure just
recounting many of the travelling experiences I
have had visiting England. I have tried to cover
most of the things I thought would be of interest
to the first time visitor to England, including
preparing for the trip, getting there and then
touring this most enjoyable country.
I hope you have found the book easy to read and
use as a guide to help you plan your trip. And if
you have already made your trip, I hope you found
the suggestions to be worthwhile and that you,
too, had experiences similar to mine.
As I travel, I like to take photographs of the
places I have been, and I usually will buy a brochure or book about the sights I have seen. I
hope you have done likewise or will do so, because
it is certainly a way to enjoy the trip long after
it was made.
Thank you for travelling the 'Yelavich
Road'.......
[Return to Table of Contents] The following pages are provided for you to
make notes regarding suggestions and recommendations you may receive from friends or business
associates.
For hotels and B&B you may wish to record suggestions for places to stay, cost, location,
special or unique items of interest and so on.
There are many good restaurants and many reasons
for choosing one over another. Record the name of
the restaurant, location, and why it was recommended.
There is much to see and do in the area and I'm
sure people will want you to share some of the
same pleasurable experiences they have had.
Record the suggestion, where it is, cost, any
schedule considerations, and why it was recommended.
In addition to the obvious modes of transportation, someone may suggest a boat ride, a ferry, a
punt, a Hovercraft, whatever. If it sounds interesting, record the particulars here for your
future reference.
This page is provided for you to make notes
regarding suggestions or recommendations you may
receive from friends or business associates.
This page is provided for you to make notes
regarding suggestions or recommendations you may
receive from friends or business associates.
This page is provided for you to make notes
regarding suggestions or recommendations you may
receive from friends or business associates.
This page is provided for you to make notes
regarding suggestions or recommendations you may
receive from friends or business associates.
This page is provided for you to make notes
regarding suggestions or recommendations you may
receive from friends or business associates.
This page is provided for you to make notes
regarding suggestions or recommendations you may
receive from friends or business associates.
Preparing for your trip
Currency exchange
Time zone differences
The weather
Planning for your trip
Books and Maps
A Bit of Geography
Gatwick Airport
Passport Control
Baggage Claim Area
Customs
Gatwick North Terminal and Heathrow
Leaving Gatwick
Getting to Hursley from Gatwick
To Winchester by Train
Trains from Heathrow
Driving from Gatwick
Different routes to Winchester
Hotels in and around Winchester
The Winchester Forte Crest Hotel
The Potters Heron
Lainston House
The Eastleigh Forte Crest Hotel
Other Hotels
Initial sightseeing
Dover and the East
Brighton and the South Coast
Windsor Enroute to Winchester
London
Trains to London
Things to See and Do
Winchester
Winchester Cathedral
Walking Around Winchester
Dining out in the Winchester area
Restaurants in Winchester
Restaurants Outside of Winchester
Restaurants South of Winchester
Restaurants North of Winchester
Personal Experiences
Tours
Winchester area
Portsmouth and Arundel
Portsmouth
Fishbourne
Arundel
The New Forest area
Basingstoke, Reading, Oxford, Blenheim, and Hungerford
The Wallops, Stonehenge, Salisbury, and South
To Bath, Castle Combe, and Wales
Bath
Castle Combe
Bristol and Wales
Land's End and points west
The Cotswolds
Stratford-upon-Avon and Warwick
Windsor, Cambridge, and East Anglia
Leeds, Yorkshire, and the Lake District
Summary
A little help from your friends
- Hotels
Hotel Recommendations
Bed and Breakfast (B&B) Recommendations
Restaurant Recommendations
Sightseeing Recommendations
Entertainment Recommendations
Transportation Recommendations